Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [372]
From Jaén, colectivo (shared) buses leave for San Ignacio (S15, 2½ hours), where there’s a simple hotel and places to eat. Change here for another colectivo for the rough road to La Balsa (S15, 2½ hours) on the Río Blanco dividing Peru from Ecuador. There used to be a balsa (ferry) here (hence the name), but there’s now a new international bridge linking the countries. Border formalities are straightforward if you have your papers in order, although the immigration officers don’t get to see many gringos coming through.
Once in Ecuador, curious yet typical rancheras (trucks with rows of wooden seats) await to take you on the uncomfortable and unpredictable (because of the weather) 10km drive to Zumba (US$2, 1½ to 2½ hours). From here, buses go to the famed ‘valley of longevity’ of Vilcabamba (US$4, four hours) where you’ll be ready to relax in one of the comfortable hotels and read Lonely Planet’s Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands book. If you leave Jaén at dawn, you should be able to make it to Vilcabamba in one day.
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Vast zones of little-explored cloud forest surround the city of Chachapoyas, concealing some of Peru’s most fascinating and least-known archaeological treasures. Although the ravages of weather and time, as well as more recent attentions of grave robbers and treasure seekers, have caused damage to many of the ruins, some have survived remarkably well. Kuélap is by far the most famous of these archaeological sites, though dozens of other ruins lie besieged by jungle and make for tempestuous exploration.
More than a dozen tour agencies in Chachapoyas will vie for your custom and help you arrange trekking trips that include guides, horses, accommodations and all food. Some hikes will require at least sleeping bags; check what you will need ahead of time. The driest months (May to September) are the best time to go hiking and to organize a group to share costs. October to December isn’t too wet, but January to April can be soggy.
The traditional evening pastime of strolling around the Plaza de Armas provides the town’s main form of entertainment, relaxation and socializing.
History
The Chachapoyas culture was conquered – but never fully subdued – by the Incas a few decades before the Spaniards arrived (Click here). When the Europeans showed up, local chief Curaca Huamán supposedly aided them in their conquest to defeat the Inca. Because of the relative lack of Inca influence, the people didn’t learn to speak Quechua and today Spanish is spoken almost exclusively. Local historians claim that San Juan de la Frontera de las Chachapoyas was the third town founded by the Spaniards in Peru (after Piura and Lima) and it was, at one time, the seventh-largest town in the country.
Information
Several stores on the plaza will change US dollars at reasonable rates.
BCP (Ortiz Arrieta) Changes US dollars and traveler’s checks and has an ATM.
I@NNET (cnr Ayacucho & Grau; per hr S2; 8am-midnight) Try internetting here.
International Language Center (Ayacucho 1045; 8am-1pm, 4-7pm) In addition to Spanish lessons for S15 per hour, the friendly owners here (who speak perfect English) freely dole out tourist information and often have paid positions for English teachers. They have luggage storage if you need to stow your bags for a day or two.
iPerú (47-7292; Ortíz Arrieta 588; 8am-7pm) Excellent maps, transportation information and recommendations.
Laundry (Chincha Alta 417; per kg S2.50; 7am-9pm) The lovely family here will turn around clothes in their machines or by hand in about one day. Knock if the door is closed.
Post office (47-7019; Ortíz Arrieta; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Just south of the plaza.
Sights & Activities
The Instituto Nacional de Cultura Museo (INC; Ayacucho 904; admission free; 9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Sat) houses a half a dozen mummies and ceramics from several pre-Columbian periods.
A 10-minute