Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [373]
Trekking to the numerous impressive sights and ruins around Chachapoyas (Click here) is becoming increasingly popular and is easy to arrange in town. The most popular trek is the four- or five-day Gran Vilaya trek, from Choctámal to the Marañón canyon, through pristine cloud forest and past several ruins and the heavenly Valle de Belén. Another popular adventure heads out to the Laguna de los Cóndores (Click here), a three-day trip on foot and horseback from Leimebamba. Both are for walkers in good shape and with stamina. Treks to any of the other ruins in the district can be arranged and tailored to suit your needs – though there’s so much to see here that several weeks would not be enough.
Tours & Guides
All the tour agencies are found near the Plaza de Armas. Ask around for other travelers’ experiences before you choose an agency. Expect to pay S100 to S150 per person for multiday treks (a little more for groups of less than four) and around S50 for day tours.
Chachapoyas Tours (47-8078; www.kuelapperu.com; Santo Domingo 432) These guys get rave reviews for their day tours of the area. The company also organizes multiday treks and has some English-speaking guides.
Turismo Explorer (47-8162; www.turismoexplorerperu.com; Grau 509) This company also has a great reputation and specializes in multiday treks. It has guides who speak excellent English.
Sleeping
Most places in Chachapoyas fall squarely in the budget category.
Hostal Johumaji (47-7279; olvacha@terra.com.pe; Ayacucho 711; s S14, dS20-35) The better of the town’s super-cheap hotels, Johumaji has small, Spartan and tidy rooms that are well lit and have electric hot showers. Laundry service for S4 per kilogram is available, as is a TV for S5 extra per night.
Hotel el Dorado (47-7047; Ayacucho 1062; s/d S18/30) An older house with electric hot showers, clean rooms and helpful staff.
Kuélap Hotel (47-7136; kuelaphotel@hotmail.com; Amazonas 1057; s/d S25/35; ) The plain rooms here pass the cleanliness inspection and have hot water, though mattresses are a bit saggy and it can get noisy at night.
Hotel Karajía (31-2606; Calle 2 de Mayo 546; s/d S25/35) Secure, basic and clean is about all that can be said of this place – though the kaleidoscopic bedspreads do tend to cheer the rooms up a bit.
Hostal Belén (47-7830; Ortiz Arrieta 540; s/d S30/45) Also on the plaza in a well-maintained building, Belén has very small but tidy rooms, each with one brightly painted wall to cheer up the relative darkness.
Hostal Las Orquídeas (47-8271, www.hostallasorquideas.com; Ayacucho 1231; s/d S35/65) The value here is excellent. The simple tile-floor rooms are bright and open and the public area are decorated with cheerful colors and some wood and artsy accents. The staff will help you book travel and arrange excursions.
Hotel Puma Urco (/fax 47-7871; Amazonas 833; s/d S50/80) A basic, new and contemporary hotel with lots of wood throughout and a small cafe downstairs.
Hostal La Villa de Paris (79-2332; www.hostalvillaparis.com; entrance to Chachapoyas; s/d S65/95, bungalow S180-250; ) Only 1.5km from the main square, this lovely colonial-style hotel furnished with lots of wood and antiques has the feel of a much more expensive hotel. Large windows and balconies bring in the light and all rooms have cable TV. The restaurant here is also worth a visit.
Casa Vieja Hostal (/fax 47-7353; www.casaviejaperu.com; Chincha Alta 569; s/d S60/90;) Very comfortable quarters in a classy converted mansion make Casa Vieja Hostal a very special choice. All of the rooms have handcrafted wood accents, decorative or working fireplaces and big windows facing onto the verdant garden. A touch of the modern is provided by flat-screen TVs with