Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [374]
La Casona Monsante (47-7702; www.lacasonamonsante.com; Amazonas 746; s/d/tr S60/90/130) This lovely colonial mansion is one of the town’s top picks. Walk in to find a large, plant-filled stone courtyard and unwind in the inviting and super-comfy rooms decorated with photos of the region and paintings (in which Jesus and Mary make regular guest appearances). Rooms come with cable TV.
Hotel Gran Vilaya (47-7664; hotelvilaya@viabcp.com; Ayacucho 755; s/d S70/80; ) This modern deal has the standard Peruvian hotel setup, with carpeting, faux-wood-lined walls and a casino next door. Rooms are spacious, showers are hot, but the ambience is rather unexciting.
Eating
Moving east across the Andes, Chachapoyas is the first place where you begin finding Amazonian-style dishes, though with local variations. Juanes (steamed rice with fish or chicken, wrapped in a banana leaf) are made with yucca instead of rice. Cecina, a dish made from dehydrated pork in the lowlands, is often made with beef.
Café Café (Amazonas 829; desserts S1-3; 7am-10pm) A popular, flashy and bright little place under Hotel Puma Urco doing simple sandwiches (S2 to S6), sweet cakes and hot beverages.
Dulcería Santa Elena (Amazonas 800-804; mains S1-3; 7:30am-10pm) The grouchy old man here serves the town’s best pastries and cookies; if he likes you, though, he might throw something in for free.
Panificadora San José (Ayacucho 816; breakfasts S2-5; 6:30am-10pm) This bakery features a few tables where you can enjoy a tamal, humita (mashed corn dumpling filled with spiced beef, vegetables and potatoes) or sandwich with coffee for breakfast, and snacks and desserts all day. Be sure to try their rich hot chocolate (S2).
Chifa Chuy Xien (47-8587; Amazonas 840; mains S4-10; 12-4pm & 6-10pm) Behold, the town’s best (only?) Chinese restaurant.
Hotel Plaza (47-7554; Grau 534, 2nd fl; menús S5) It’s ambience galore at this plaza-view restaurant, though unfortunately it only has a few tables by the window. Recommended for its set lunches; the service can be slow, though.
Chacha (47-7107; Grau 545; menús S5, mains S6-12; 7am-10pm) This is an old standby on the plaza – service is slooooow, but the meals are reliable.
Maripizza (47-8876; Ayacucho 832; pizzas S12-30; noon-late) This pizzeria dedicates itself to homemade pasta and pies, served in a casual dining room that is popular with locals as well as gringos.
Marlissa (47-7118; Ayacucho 1139; meals S20-60; noon-10pm) Specializing in parrilladas (meats cooked on an open flame), Marlissa’s grill experts will deliver a sizzling platter of beef, chicken and sausage to your table. They also specialized in cuy (guinea pig) cooked in several ways – with maní (peanut) sauce is one local specialty – and host a disco night on the weekends.
Drinking & Entertainment
Los Troncos (47-7239; Calle 2 de Mayo 561; 7pm-5am) The top spot to get your boogie on at the moment is this place, which fills up by 10pm on weekends and blasts international music to a gyrating crowd.
Hechizos Karaoke (Recreo btw Ayacucho & Amazonas; 7pm-late) Come here if you feel like belting out your own unique rendition of Céline Dion.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Although Chachapoyas has an airport, at the time of writing no carriers flew in or out of it. This may change, though probably not soon.
BUS & TAXI
The frequently traveled route to Chiclayo (10 to 11 hours) and on to Lima (20 to 23 hours) starts along the vista-lined route to Pedro Ruíz along the Río Utcubamba. Transervis Kuélap (47-8128; Ortíz Arrieta 412) has a daily bus to Chiclayo (S27) at 7pm. Civa (47 −8048; Salamanca 956) has a daily 6pm bus to Chiclayo (S30) and buses bound for Lima on Monday at noon and Wednesday and Friday at 4pm (S80). Transportes Zelada (37-8066; Ortiz Arrieta 310) goes to Lima (S60) at 11:30am, stopping at Chiclayo (S22.50). It also has a direct bus to Chiclayo only at 8pm. The very comfortable Movil Tours (47-8545; La Libertad 464) has an express bus to Lima (S15, 22 hours) at 4pm,