Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [382]
* * *
Heading east from Pomacochas, many travelers pass through one of northern Peru’s most successful private reserves without noticing it. The 2960-hectare Abra Patricia conservation area (81-6814; www.ecoan.org; r per person with 3 meals S1350), about 40 minutes east of Pedro Ruíz on the road to Moyobamba, is managed by the Association of Andean Ecosystems (ECOAN) and offers large and exceptionally clean, quiet rooms for nature lovers and anyone who just wants to get away from the noise of civilization. The gourmet meals are served in a dining room with views of mountainous forest that has never seen the swipe of a chainsaw. Although a favorite of bird-watching tour groups – who come to see such endemic species as Yellow-scarved Tanager, Lulu’s Tody-tyrant and the extremely rare Long-whiskered Owlet – it’s also the best place to see the Yellow-tailed Woolly Monkey.
Return to beginning of chapter
MOYOBAMBA
042 / pop 41,800 / elev 860m
Moyobamba, the capital of the department of San Martín, was founded in 1542, but earthquakes (most recently in 1990 and 1991) have contributed to the demise of any historic buildings. Nevertheless, Moyobamba is a pleasant enough town to spend a few days in and local tourist authorities are slowly drumming up sites of interest to visit.
Information
Alt@ntin Internet (Calle de Alvarado 863; per hr $0.90) Email your folks here.
BCP (56-2572; Calle de Alvarado 903) Changes money and has an ATM.
Dirección Regional de Industria y Turismo (56-2043; www.turismosanmartin.com; San Martín 301) Has limited tourism information.
Sights & Activities
The well-maintained hot springs of Baños Termales de San Mateo (admission S1.50; 6am-8pm) with temperatures of around 40°C are 4km south of town. Taxis cost S5, or catch a colectivo (S1) at Jirón Varacadillo, cuadra 1, in Moyobamba. On weekends the baths get crowded with locals, who know the waters are curative; travelers rarely make it here. The Cascadas Paccha and Lahuarpía are impressive waterfalls, each 30 minutes away by car. The region is famed for its orchids; there’s an orchid festival held in October and a giant orchid statue guards the town’s entrance. You can see these and other exotic plants in a giant geodesic-domed hothouse at the Jardín Botánico San Francisco (admission S1; 8am-5pm). It’s 2km from town, a S4 mototaxi ride away. For more orchids in a natural setting, visit Waqanki Orchid Center (www.waqanki.com; Carretera a Los Baños Termales de San Mateo), about 3km outside of town. They have some 150 species of orchids growing along two-, four- and six-hour trail circuits winding through beautiful forest.
The Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INC; 56-2281; Benavides 352; admission S1; 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) is a small museum and has some information as well.
Tours & Guides
Tingana Magic (56-1436; www.tinganaperu.com; Reyes Guerra 422; 10am-6pm) can arrange tours around the area to waterfalls, caves and ecological reserves.
Sleeping & Eating
Hospedaje Santa Rosa (80-9890; Canga 478; s/d S12/24) A great shoestring pick with a few rudimentary, newly painted rooms set around a brick patio. The occasional potted plant helps liven up the concrete-jungle feel.
Hostal Royal (56-2662; Calle de Alvarado 784; s/d S18/27) With cubby-sized rooms and friendly service, this cheap option also has a basic restaurant downstairs.
Country Club Hostal (56-2110; www.moyabamba.net/countryclub; Calle de Aguila 667; s/d S25/35; ) Spartan tiled rooms have hot showers and sit around a green lawn lined with scraggly bushes. There’s a tiny pool, though it was empty when we last visited.
Atlanta Hotel (56-2063; Calle de Alvaro 865; s/d S27/45) With a Motel 6-inspired setup around a tiled courtyard, this place has good, clean rooms with hot water and smiles all round.
Hostal Marcoantonio (56-2045; Canga 488; s/d S65/90) This is the place to come for a touch of comfort in Moyobamba. The spotless rooms have the necessary mod cons, such as TV and hot water, but lack flair or