Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [383]
Hotel Puerto Mirador (/fax 56-2050; www.hotelpuertomirador.com; Jirón Sucre; s/d S120/150, bungalows incl breakfast S168; ) Located 1km northeast of town, this fine hotel with relaxing views over the Río Mayo has oodles of luxuriant lawn, a great pool and lots of sitting areas made from natural materials. A restaurant provides room service.
Chifa Shanghai (9-62-7436; Calle de Avaro; meals S6-9) Packed nightly with more diners than you can poke a wantan (wonton) at, this is the place to go for a taste of the Middle Kingdom.
La Olla de Barro (56-3450; Canga at Filomeno; mains S6-18; 8am-11pm) This local institution is set up like a tiki lounge, complete with faux flames licking around a ‘bubbling’ pot, lots of bamboo and jungle knickknacks. This is the best place in town to sample local jungle dishes – don’t miss it.
Hospedaje Ecológico Rumipata (79-5291; www.rumipata.com; Carretera a Los Baños Termales de San Mateo; bungalows S30) A five-minute walk from the San Mateo hot springs and Waqanki Orchid Center, Rumipata is situated in a verdant and idyllic setting outside of Moyobamba. Rooms are in thatched-roof bungalows with rustic interiors, and the on-site restaurant is delicious.
Getting There & Away
Colectivos to Rioja (S3, 30 minutes) and Tarapoto (S18, two hours) leave frequently from the corner of Benavides and Filomeno, three blocks east of the Plaza de Armas.
The bus terminal is on Grau, about 1km from the center. Most buses between Tarapoto and Chiclayo stop here to pick up passengers.
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TARAPOTO
042 / pop 65,900 / elev 356m
Tarapoto straddles the base of the Andean foothills and the edge of the vast jungles of eastern Peru. A sweltering rainforest metropolis, it dips its toe into the Amazon Basin while managing to cling to the rest of Peru by the umbilical cord of a long paved road back to civilization. From here you can take the plunge deeper into the Amazon, or just enjoy the easily accessible jungle lite, with plenty of places to stay and eat and reliable connections to the coast. There’s a bunch of natural sights to explore nearby, from waterfalls to lagoons, and river-running opportunities will entertain the adventure-seeking contingent.
The largest and busiest town in the department of San Martín, Tarapoto’s recent growth can be accounted for by coca-growing enterprises in the middle and upper Río Huallaga valley to the south. Tourists don’t usually encounter problems and the situation has been improving since the government crackdown on Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) guerillas in the 1990s. The exception is the Saposoa region; the trip through there to Tingo María is not recommended. The route from Moyobamba through Tarapoto and on to Yurimaguas is safe, but be sure to check the latest conditions.
Information
Internet cafes hide around every corner.
BCP (Maynas 130; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Cashes traveler’s checks and has an ATM.
Clínica San Martín (52-3680, 52-7860; San Martín 274; 24hr) The best medical care in town.
Interbank (89-5092; Grau 119)
Post office (50-3450; San Martín 482; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Tarapoto’s main post office.
Puerto Net (cnr Hurtado & Bolognesi; per hr S2; 8am-midnight) Has new computers with big screens.
Scotiabank (Hurtado 215; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Cashes traveler’s checks and has an ATM.
Tarapoto Express Lavanderia (52 −6367; Manco Cápac; per kg S5; 8am-9pm) With another location for you laundry pleasure on Calle de Moray.
Sights & Activities
Tarapoto itself has little to do, apart from just hanging out in the town’s Plaza de Armas or visiting the tiny Museo Regional (Maynas 174; admission S1; 8am-noon & 12:30-8pm Mon-Fri), but you can make several excursions to nearby towns, waterfalls and lakes.
Lamas is an indigenous village that unfortunately lost many of its colonial buildings in a 2005 earthquake; however, it’s a standard tour destination for its small museum and crafts. The large indigenous population