Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [386]
Hotel Monte Azul (52-2443, 52-3145; www.hotelmonteazul.com.pe; Morey 156; s/d S75/109, s/d with air-con S109/159; ) Adorned with some nice flopping areas, it’s cozy, orderly and bright and at this price is pretty good bang for your buck. The staff is always switched on and friendly, and the rooms all have quality mattresses, direct-dial phones and mini-fridges.
Hotel Lily (52-3154; Pimentel 407; s/d incl breakfast S100/145; ) Unpretentious but secure and restful, this business-oriented hotel features a sauna and a breakfast room by the pool. Rooms are spacious, with writing desks, mini-fridges, phones and vivid colors (think blue carpet and lime green blankets). Streetside rooms have balconies but can be noisy.
Hotel Nilas (52-7331/2; nilas-tpto@terra.com.pe; Moyobamba 173; s/d S120/160; ) A canary yellow hotel like this would not be out of place swaying over a Miami beach – and the palm-fringed 3rd-floor pool rounds off the illusion nicely. The good-sized rooms have the all the necessary mod cons and you’ll find a gym, restaurant and conference center tucked away among the maze of cheery floors.
Hotel Río Shilcayo (52-2225, /fax 52-4236; www.rioshilcayo.com; Pasaje La Flores 224; s/d/bungalows incl breakfast S189/229/259; ) Almost 2km east of town, this hotel is quiet and cool and has a sauna, good restaurant, bar and rooms with good amenities – and a tropical bird enclosure thrown in for good measure. Rates include airport transfer.
TOP END
Puerto Palmeras (52-3978, 52-4100; www.puertopalmeras.com; Presidente FB Terry Km 614; s/d S199/289, ste S389-559; ) This resort, 6km east of town, has the whole kit and caboodle. Set on sprawling green grounds, the decked-out rooms are spread out in hacienda-style complexes constructed with white adobe walls and decorated with loads of attractive pieces of art. The resort grounds have a large fishing pond, a beautiful pool, artfully decorated restaurant and sitting areas, billiard tables, horses, a fleet of 4WDs for hire and more. It’s a S4 taxi ride from town or you can call for a pickup.
Eating
Don’t leave Tarapoto without trying inchicapi (chicken soup with peanuts, cilantro and yucca) or juanes (steamed rice with fish or chicken, wrapped in a banana leaf).
Banana’s Burgers (52-3260; Calle de Morey 102; S3-6; 24hr) A good burger joint, this place is always open and there’s a bar on the 2nd floor.
Chifa Tai Pai (52-4393; Prado 250; meals S5-18; 12-3pm & 6-11pm) Modern and shiny, this chifa serves up good Chinese fare to eager locals and families.
Real Grill (52-2183; Moyobamba 131; mains S8-27; 8am-midnight) An institution right on the Plaza de Armas, this place has (noisy) outdoor tables and serves pastas, Chinese meals, local dishes, meat, seafood, burgers and so on. The food is middle of the road.
Café d’ Mundo (50-3223; Calle de Morey 157; meals S9-21; 7pm-midnight) A funky establishment illuminated nightly by moody candlelight, this hip restaurant and bar has outdoor seating and snug indoor lounges. Good pizzas, pastas and other tidbits adorn a small menu and a full bar will help you pass the rest of the evening away comfortably. The continually roaring mototaxis tend to detract from the mood a little, however.
El Brassero (52-2700; Lamas 231; mains S9-21; noon-late) Carnivores congregate at this great grill. Choose your cut; pork ribs are the specialty, funky acid-jazz tunes are a bonus. The owners love to chat – they only close when the coals die down and people leave.
La Patarashca (52-3899; Lamas 261; mains S9-32; 8am-11pm) Regional Amazon cuisine is on tap in Patarashca’s casual 2nd-floor dining room. With street views and a tropical ambience, it’s a popular weekend place to see and be seen. Don’t miss the paiche (a freshwater fish) and salad made of chonta, thin strips of a local