Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [387]
La Collpa (52-2644, Circunvalación 164; mains S13-32; 10am-11pm) You can practically taste the jungle air at this stilt restaurant, with a bamboo balcony over a river and a patch of rainforest. The menu offers up everything imaginable, from ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lime juice) to typical jungle food to grills to Chinese food to pastas. It’s best to come for lunch to appreciate the views, though candlelit dinners are also a treat.
El Rincón Sureño (52-2785; Leguia 458; meals S14-35; noon-11pm) One of the best grills in town, this swish-looking establishment has intimate wood-lined rooms as well as a bustling outdoor seating area. The grilled meats here are delicious and El Rincón Sureño boasts what must be one of the largest wine collections in all of South America.
Supermercado la Inmaculada (52-7598; Calle de Compagnon 126; 8:30am-10pm) This supermarket has everything you might need for self-catering.
Drinking
Stonewasi Taberna (52-4681; Lamas 222; 6pm-late) This is the place to see and be seen in Tarapoto. The whole intersection of Lamas and La Cruz transforms each evening into a cruising scene, with several good people-watching restaurants and bars. Stonewasi is the pick of the bunch and lays out streetside tables where punters and mototaxi drivers throng nightly to the sound of international rock and house music. Check out the path leading to one of the entryways – it’s made entirely of conch-shell fossils.
La Alternativa (52-7898; Grau 401; 9am-8pm) This ‘alternative’ hole-in-the-wall bar is more like a medieval pharmacy than a bar – shelves are stacked with dusty bottles containing uvachado and various homemade natural concoctions based on soaking roots, lianas etc in cane liquor. All the potent Amazonian tonics and brews are for the tasting – but not for the faint-hearted.
Entertainment
Papillón (52-2574; Peru 209; admission S9; evening Fri & Sat) This nightclub has live salsa bands or DJ-fuelled dancing. Popular with young locals and travelers, it’s in the Morales district, by the Río Cumbaza about 3km west of the center. Mototaxis go there for under S3.
Getting There & Away
AIR
The airport (TTP; 52-2278), 3km southwest of the center, charges S11 departure tax.
Star Perú (52-8765; San Pablo de la Cruz 100) has daily flights from Lima to Tarapoto (S278) at 1:30pm, returning at 3pm. This flight continues on to Iquitos (S254) at 5pm. A daily LAN (52 9318; Hurtado 184) flight leaves Lima (S399) at noon and 9:30pm, returning to Lima at 2pm and 11:30pm.
BUS & TAXI
Several companies head west on the paved road to Lima (24 to 28 hours) via Moyobamba (two hours), Chiclayo (14 to 16 hours) and Trujillo (18 to 20 hours), generally leaving between 8am and 4pm. All these companies can be found along the same block of Salaverry in the Morales district, an S2 mototaxi ride from the town center. If you’re heading to Chachapoyas, you’ll need to change in Pedro Ruíz (seven hours).
Cial (52-7629; Salaverry) Has a noon express bus to Lima (S102) and a 4:30pm Chiclayo bus (S45).
Civa (52-2269; Salaverry) Has a comfortable 2pm bus to Lima (S102) stopping at Chiclayo (S45) and Trujillo (S72). Also has a 6pm bus to Chiclayo.
Ejetur (52-6827; Salaverry) Has a bus to Lima (S72) at 11:15am via Chiclayo (S41.50) and Trujillo (S50). Also has direct Trujillo buses at 7:30am, 8:30am and 1:30pm. A bus leaves for San Ignacio (S36, 18 hours) at 7:30am for the alternative Ecuador border crossing (Click here).
Expreso Huamanga (52-7272; Salaverry) Slower buses to Chiclayo (S36, 16 hours) via Jaén (S27, nine hours) at 8:30am, Chiclayo direct at 11:30am (S36), Lima at 2:30pm (S72) and Yurimaguas at 8am (S11, six to eight hours).
Movil Tours (52 −9193; Salaverry) Top-end express buses to Lima (S102, 24 hours) leave at 8am and 1pm, with a 3pm departure to Trujillo (S67) and a 4pm bus to Chiclayo (S59).
Paredes Estrella (52-1202; Salaverry) Has a cheaper 11am service to Lima (S72) stopping