Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [388]
Turismo Tarapoto (52 −5240; Salaverry) A cheaper 3pm bus to Trujillo (S41) via Chiclayo (S45) as well as an 11am bus to Piura (S45, 18 hours).
Minibuses, trucks and colectivo taxis for Yurimaguas (S14 to S22) leave when full from the mercado (market) in the eastern suburb of Banda de Shilcayo and take five to six hours in the dry season, more in the wet. The rough (especially in wet season) 130km road climbs over the final foothills of the Andes and emerges on the Amazonian plains.
Colectivo taxis to Moyobamba (S25) leave when full from Salaverry in the Morales district. Minibuses to Lamas (S5, 45 minutes) can also be found along this road.
The southbound journey via Bellavista to Juanjuí (145km) and on to Tocache Nuevo and Tingo María (485km), though safer than it once was, is still dangerous and not recommended because of drug-running and problems with bandits (Click here). If you go, avoid traveling at night, and see if any flights are available. Bellavista, Juanjuí and Tocache Nuevo all have basic hotels. Tingo María is safe enough.
Getting Around
Mototaxis cruise the streets like circling sharks. A short ride in town is around S1, to the bus stations S2 and to the airport S3.
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Amazon Basin
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SOUTHERN AMAZON
PUERTO MALDONADO
AROUND PUERTO MALDONADO
MANU AREA
CUZCO TO MANU
PARQUE NACIONAL MANU
MANU WILDLIFE CENTER & AROUND
CENTRAL AMAZON
SAN RAMÓN & LA MERCED
SATIPO
EAST OF SATIPO
OXAPAMPA
PUERTO BERMÚDEZ
PUCALLPA
YARINACOCHA
CONTAMANÁ TO REQUENA
NORTHERN AMAZON
YURIMAGUAS
LAGUNAS
RESERVA NACIONAL PACAYA-SAMIRIA
IQUITOS
AROUND IQUITOS
PEVAS
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The sheer vastness and impenetrability of the Amazon Basin has protected its diverse flora, fauna and indigenous communities from the outside world for time immemorial. Tribes exist in its depths that have never had contact with outside civilization. As the 21st century slowly dawns on this enticing expanse of jungle territory, the abundance of natural resources contained within it – ranging from oil to ranch land – is set to threaten and possibly forever change it. The jungle here comprises 50% of the nation, yet only 5% of Peruvians live in it. Stretching away from beneath the eastern flank of the Andes for thousands of kilometers to the Atlantic Ocean, this wilderness has long been synonymous with the word ‘adventure,’ and Peru’s portion of it has been judiciously preserved. More plant types flourish in a single rainforest hectare here than in any European country. Some of the world’s most diverse nature reserves beckon, making this one of the continent’s premier wildlife-watching spots.
Divided into three primary areas, the Peruvian Amazonas not only offers a mixture of birding and animal-spotting, jungle trekking and river life but also a dash of raucous rainforest city living. There are only three towns of any size: Pucallpa can be reached by a paved road, Puerto Maldonado is accessible mostly by dirt track and Iquitos is connected to the rest of Peru by river and air alone. This lush region begs for the attention of adventure seekers but it also begs for protection. Its natural wealth also attracts loggers, energy companies, slash-and-burn farmers and developers. This is frontier country. Travel is tough but rewards are unlimited: forging your way by rough road, raging river and overgrown path, you’ll feel like the explorers who first brought outside attention to this region.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Travel overland through mountains, cloud forest and jungle to Parque Nacional Manu (Click here)
Spot Amazonian animals and birds at the upper Río Tambopata (Click here) and Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria (Click here)
Visit the Asháninka people from Puerto Bermúdez (Click here)
Swing in a hammock on a riverboat heading to Iquitos (Click here and Click here)
▪ BIGGEST CITY: IQUITOS, POPULATION 371,000