Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [401]
A little further up the Tambopata, near the community of Baltimore, are several hospedajes (small, family-owned inns), now part of a project to get tourists to experience local life on the river for a fraction of the prices lodges charge. Inquire at the office (Off Map; 57-2380; informes@baltimoreperu.org.pe; Ancash 950) in Puerto Maldonado about these, or just show up (maybe bring some food and water). One magical option is Casa de Hospedaje El Gato, across the river from Baltimore. Owned by the Ramírez family, it has basic beds, showers at waterfalls in the river, and includes meals and forest walks. Prices for this and other lodgings here are not fixed but start at daily rates per person of US$10 for volunteer programs to more than US$100 for a three-day, two-night stay.
Baltimore is reached by a twice-weekly passenger boat from Puerto Maldonado (Click here), or by bus and foot. Take any vehicle from Puerto Maldonado heading to Laberinto, and ask to get off at Km 37. From there, a footpath goes to Baltimore (two to three hours).
Shortly past Baltimore is the small Wasai Tambopata Lodge (www.wasai.com; s/d per day US$80/160). This is the penultimate lodge on the river and, unlike the others, it does not feature programmed ecoactivities. So if you just want to relax, read a book, enjoy a beer or just amble around the 20km of well-signed trails yourself, this is the place to do it. Fishing and canoe paddling are other options. The lodge consists of four large bungalows and two smaller ones, and can accommodate a maximum of 40 guests. There is a tall observation tower from where you get good views of the surrounding jungle. Transportation is not included in the price. Contact Wasai Lodge (Map; 082-57-2290; www.wasai.com; Billinghurst at Arequipa, Puerto Maldonado).
Finally, about seven hours’ river travel from Puerto Maldonado, the Tambopata Research Center (s/d 5 days & 4 nights US$945/1490) is known for a famous salt lick nearby that attracts four to 10 species of parrots and macaws on most mornings. Research here focuses on why macaws eat clay, their migration patterns, their diet, nesting macaws and techniques for building artificial nests. The lodge itself is fairly simple, with 18 double rooms sharing four showers and four toilets, but because of the distances involved, rates are higher than the other places. If you’re interested in seeing more macaws than you ever thought possible, it’s worth the expense, although the owners point out that occasionally, due to poor weather or other factors, macaws aren’t found at the lick. Still, about 75% of visitors get a good look at macaws. Travel time to the lodge varies, depending on river levels and the size of your boat motor: a stopover is usually made at Refugio Amazonas on the first and last nights. The last section of the ride is through remote country, with excellent chances of seeing capybaras and maybe more unusual animals. Have your passport ready at the Puesto Control Malinowsky. Book with Rainforest Expeditions (www.perunature.com) Cuzco (084-24-6243; cusco@rainforest.com.pe; Portal de Carnes 236); Lima (01-421-8347; postmaster@rainforest.com.pe; Aramburu 166, Miraflores); Puerto Maldonado (082-57-2575; pem@rainforest.com.pe; Av Aeropuerto Km 6, CPM La Joya).
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MANU AREA
The Manu area encompasses the Parque Nacional Manu and much of the surrounding area. Covering almost 20,000 sq km (about the size of Wales), the park