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Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [402]

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is one of the best places in South America to see a wide variety of tropical wildlife. The park is divided into three zones. The largest sector is the zona natural, comprising 80% of the total park area and closed to unauthorized visitors. Entry to this sector is restricted to a few indigenous groups, mainly the Matsiguenka (also spelled Machiguenga), some of whom continue to live here as they have for generations; some groups have had almost no contact with outsiders and do not seem to want any. Fortunately, this wish is respected. A handful of researchers with permits are also allowed in to study the wildlife. The second sector, still within the park proper, is the zona reservada, where controlled research and tourism activities are permitted. There are only a couple of official accommodation options here. This is the northeastern sector and comprises about 10% of the park area. The third sector, covering the southeastern area, is the zona cultural, where most other visitor activity is concentrated. The area around the park still provides great wildlife-watching opportunities, and is recommended for the spectacular macaw and tapir licks southeast of Boca Manu, as well as the bird-watching at the Manu Wildlife Center (Click here).

Tours to the Manu Area

It’s important to check exactly where the tours are going: Manu is a catchall word that includes the national park and much of the surrounding area. Some tours, such as to the Manu Wildlife Center, don’t actually enter Parque Nacional Manu at all (although the wildlife center is recommended for wildlife-watching, nonetheless). Some companies aren’t allowed to enter the park, but offer what they call ‘Manu tours’ either outside the park or acting as agents for other operators. Other companies work together and share resources such as lodges, guides and transportation services. This can mean the agency in whose office you sign up for the tour isn’t the agency you end up going with. Most will combine a Manu experience with a full Peru tour on request. Confusing? You bet!

The companies listed in this section are all authorized to operate within Manu by the national park service and maintain some level of conservation and low-impact practices. The number of permits to operate tours into Parque Nacional Manu is limited; only about 3000 visitors are allowed in annually. Intending visitors must book well in advance. Be flexible with onward travel plans as delays are common. Entering by bus and boat and returning by flight is the best means of seeing Manu.

Tour costs depend on whether you camp or stay in a lodge, whether you arrive and depart overland or by air and whether you enter the zona reservada. A tour inside the zone won’t necessarily get you better wildlife viewing – although, since it’s virgin jungle here, chances of seeing larger animals are greater. If your budget allows, the more expensive companies really are worth considering. They offer more reliable and trained multilingual guides, better equipment, a wider variety of food, suitable insurance and emergency procedures. Perhaps most importantly, there are more guarantees that your money is going partly towards preserving Manu, as many of these companies fund conservation costs.

All companies provide transportation, food, purified drinking water, guides, permits and camping equipment or screens in lodge rooms. Personal items such as a sleeping bag (unless staying in a lodge), insect repellent, sunblock, flashlight with spare batteries, suitable clothing and bottled drinks are the traveler’s responsibility. Binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens are highly recommended.

All lodges and tour operators in the big-money business of Manu excursions quote prices in US dollars.

Manu Expeditions (Map; 084-22-5990, 084-22-4235; www.manuexpeditions.com; Clorinda Matto de Turner 330, Urb Magisterial, Cuzco), owners of the only tented camp within the national park, and co-owners of the Manu Wildlife Center, comes highly recommended, with more than two decades of Manu experience. Its guides are excellent, experienced and

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