Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [424]
Amazon Cruises (in the USA 800-747-0567; www.amazoncruise.net; 3-night Marañon & Ucayali cruise per person US$1401, 6-day Marañon & Ucayali cruise per person US$2261) Amazon Cruises operates the charming riverboat MV Amazon Journey (El Arca), which has twice-weekly departures into the Pacaya-Samiria reserve. The vessel has 13 cabins with air-con that have upper and lower bunks, and three cabins with three- and four-bed configurations. There is also a dorm bunkroom. All cabins have private showers. The ship has an air-conditioned restaurant seating 22. Cruises last three or six days.
The company can also arrange passage on other cruise ships sailing downriver to the tri-border with Colombia (Leticia) and Brazil (Tabatinga). Cruises normally last six days (three there, three back).
Cruise boats come with plenty of deck space for river-watching, a full crew and bilingual guides. Meals are included and small launches are carried for side trips. Activities can involve visiting indigenous communities (for dancing and craft sales), hikes, and bird- and pink dolphin–watching (on big ships, don’t expect to see too much rare wildlife). Excursions are three or six days.
Green Tracks Amazon Tours & Cruises (in the USA 970-884-6107, 800-892-1035; www.amazontours.net; 7 days & 6 nights s/d $US$2700/5000) With three luxury ships plying the Peruvian Amazon, Green Tracks offers four- to seven-day excursions into the Pacaya-Samiria reserve. The Ayapua is a 20-passenger, rubber-boom-era boat used for seven-day/six-night voyages, with air-conditioned rooms, a bar and even a library. Delfín I and Delfín II are more modern vessels accommodating 12 and 28 passengers, respectively, and operate four- and five-day cruises to the reserve. Contact the company in the USA for details.
International Expeditions (in the USA 205-428-1700, 800-633-4734; www.ietravel.com; 10 days & 9 nights per person US$3298) This well-organized company operates three boats, generally using the 15-cabin MV Amatista, as well as the 14-cabin MV Turmalina and the larger 23-cabin MV Turquesa. Their relaxing and pampering nine-day river cruises take in the Ríos Amazon and Ucayali, passing through Requena en route to the Pacaya-Samiria reserve. These are elegant boats with three decks, air-conditioned double cabins with private showers, excellent dining and viewing facilities and experienced guides. Contact the company in the USA for details; you need advance reservations.
Sleeping
There’s a broad range of accommodation choices in Iquitos, from basic budget to five-star comfort. Mosquitoes are rarely a serious problem in town, so mosquito netting is not always provided.
The best hotels tend to be booked up on Friday and Saturday. The busiest season is from May to September, when prices may rise slightly.
BUDGET
All of these hotels have bathrooms and fans unless otherwise indicated.
Mad Mick’s Bunkhouse (975-4976; michaelcollis@hotmail.com; Putumayo 163; dm S12) A stone’s throw from the Plaza de Armas, this is the city’s cheapest accommodation: a dark, eight-bed dorm (four bunks) with one bathroom (interesting graffiti) that attracts shoestringers in droves.
Hostal Alfert (23-4105; Sáenz 1; s/d S15/25/35) With a great view of the river and the floating neighborhood of Belén, the gaudy green-painted Alfert tends to attracts budget travelers. With sizeable rooms and warm showers, it emits a kind of laid-back charm, but its out-of-the-way location in a rather insalubrious neighborhood is a disadvantage.
Hobo Hideout (23-4099; hobohideout@yahoo.com; Putumayo 437; dm/s/d without bathroom S17.50/25, d with/without bathroom S35/50) Looking rather sorry for itself lately, this place nevertheless retains its cool travelers vibe. Kitchen privileges, a laundry area, a bar and a cable TV room draw international hobos. One (pricier) room towers above the rest on jungle-style stilts; others are small and dark. A variety of interesting expeditions can be arranged.