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La Casa Del Francés (965-92-6442; jessia_20@hotmail.com; Raimondi 183; s/d S25/40) A secure, hammock-strung courtyard leads back to this pleasant budget choice offering several large simple rooms with spotless tiled bathrooms.

Camiri (965-98-2854; marcelbendayan@hotmail.com; end of Pevas cuadra 1; r per person with/without bathroom S30/25) For a memorable dose of relaxed, rustic Iquitos living, come to crash at this floating hostel-bar, accessed by boardwalks over the river. Five cozy rooms are offered here, one with private and four with shared showers. River views are exquisite and owner Marcel Bendayan is a mine of intriguing information. There is no electricity but plenty of lively candle-lit conversation on the river terrace.

Hospedaje La Pascana (23-5581, 23-1418; www.pascana.com; Pevas 133; s/d/t S35/40/50) This safe and friendly place with a small, verdant garden is deservedly popular with travelers and often full. A book exchange and a charming cafe serving fresh-brewed coffee add to the attraction.

Hostal El Colibrí (24-1737; hostalelcolibri@hotmail.com; Nauta 172; s/d S40/50) A very good budget choice close to the river and the main square, with pleasant, airy rooms sporting fans and TVs. The traveler-friendly folk running this place added three more floors of rooms in 2009; a street-front restaurant is planned for 2010.

Hostal Florentina (23-3591; Huallaga 212; s/d S40/50) Rooms in this old colonial house are smallish but very quiet. They come with fans, cable TV, mosquito nets and sparkling bathrooms, and are tucked well back from the road with a lovely courtyard for hammocks at the rear.

MIDRANGE

All places listed here have air-con and private bathroom, normally with hot water. Walk-in rates for standard rooms are given here; holiday rates may be higher.

Hotel Europa (23-1123; hoteleuropasac@yahoo.es; Próspero 494; s S70-90, d S110-130; ) One of the best midrange bargains, the canary-yellow Europa is a homely hotel and ticks all the boxes you could expect for the price range: air-con, minifridges, a good restaurant and laundry service.

Hostal Ambassador (/fax 23-110; Pevas 260; s/d incl breakfast S76/107; ) For some reason this is the American tour group hangout of choice. Ample if musty rooms get writing desks, cable TV and air-con but very little light. Continental breakfast in the pleasant cafeteria and free airport transfers are provided.

Marañón Hotel (24-2673; www.hmaranon.k25.net; Nauta 285; s/d incl continental breakfast S99/130; ) One of the newer Iquitos hotels, this place has light tiles everywhere and a restaurant with room service. The rooms have good-sized bathrooms as well as the usual amenities. Good value.

Posada del Cauchero (23-1699; latabernadelcauchero@yahoo.es; Raimondi 449; s/d/ste S100/120/180; ) Above the restaurant of the same name lurk 12 classy, massive, chalet-style rooms (seven with air-con), some of which are suites. All are decorated with cool, modern, tribal-themed art. There is a pool and some of the best river views in Iquitos.

Amazon Apart Hotel (26-6262; reservas@AmazonApartHotel.com; Aguirre 1151; s/d S120/144, ste S144-221; ) This bright, new, well-appointed hotel is a little out of the way – but this is its only disadvantage. There are several levels of vast colorful rooms here. Rooms all have air-con and minifridges; many also have their own kitchenettes, so that you can self-cater in style. Also has internet, a restaurant doing mean ceviche and an attractive swimming pool.

La Casa Fitzcarraldo (60-1138/39; info@lacasafitzcarraldo.com; www.lacasafitzcarraldo.com, Av La Marina 2153; r S130-200; ) Sequestered within a serene walled garden away from the city chaos, this is the most interesting accommodation option. The house takes its title from Werner Herzog’s film – Herzog and co stayed here during the filming of Fitzcarraldo (Click here). Stay in the mahogany-floored Mick Jagger room, the luxuriantly green Klaus Kinski suite or five other individually designed rooms. There is a tree house (with wi-fi!), a lovely swimming pool (nonresidents S5) and a huge

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