Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [426]
Hotel Acosta (23-1761; www.hotelacosta.com; cnr Araujo & Huallaga; s/d S150/180) Owned by the same people as the Victoria Regia; you can be sure you’re in good hands at this smart hotel. Rooms are large and all come with minifridges, air-con, minisafes and writing desks. There is a ground-floor restaurant.
TOP END
These top-end hotels have limited rooms and fill fast: reservations aren’t a bad idea.
Hotel Victoria Regia (23-1983; www.victoriaregiahotel.com; Ricardo Palma 252; s/d incl breakfast S210/240, ste S300-450; ) A blast of icy, air-conditioned air welcomes guests to this comfortable hostelry. It has excellent beds and sizeable rooms that include fancy reading lights and minifridges, plus hairdryers and baths in the bathrooms. One of the suites has a Jacuzzi. The indoor pool and fine restaurant-bar attract upscale guests and businesspeople.
Hotel El Dorado Plaza (22-2555; iquitos@eldoradoplazahotel.com; Napo 258; r incl breakfast from S726; ) With a prime plaza location, this modern hotel is the town’s best, with 64 well-equipped, spacious rooms (some with plaza views, others overlooking the pool). Jacuzzi, sauna, gym, restaurant, several suites, 24-hour room service, two bars and attentive staff make this a five-star hotel. Rates for rooms are often discounted when the hotel is not busy. The same group runs the slightly cheaper El Dorado Hotel & Suites (23-2574) at Napo 362 (singles S230, doubles S273, suites from S410), where you can still use the plaza hotel facilities.
Eating
There are great eats at the various markets, particularly the Belén mercado (cnr Prospero with Jirón 9 de Diciembre) and Mercado Central (Lores cuadra 5). A set menú here, including jugo especial (jungle juice) is under S5; watch your valuables. The city has great restaurants but sadly many regional specialities feature endangered animals, such as chicharrón de lagarto (fried alligator), paiche (local river fish) and sopa de tortuga (turtle soup). More environmentally friendly dishes include ceviche made with river fish and chupín de pollo, a tasty soup of chicken, egg and rice.
For self-catering supplies, visit Supermercado Los Portales (Próspero at Morona).
Ivalú (Lores 215; snacks from S2; breakfast & lunch) One of the most popular local spots for juice and cake in the city, this place does a handy sideline in tamales (chicken or fish in corn dough, wrapped in jungle leaves). It normally opens at 8am; go sooner rather than later if you want a seat.
Parilladas El Zorrito (23-3662; Fanning 355; mains S5-10) Food is cooked outside on a grill at this lively, ambient, immensely popular local joint. Juanes and river fish are the thing to go for here. Portions are huge. There is great live music at weekends.
Kikiriki (23-2020; Napo 159; quarter-chicken from S6; dinner only) How does a Peruvian cock crow? ‘Kikiriki.’ This is the best place in town for grilled chicken. Have it served on a bed of fried banana, the jungle way, with a dash of the legendary hot green sauce. Delivery is possible.
Huasai (24-2222; Fitzcarrald 131; mains S7-12; breakfast & lunch) Efficient service, a variety of dependable tasty meat and fish lunch specials and great juices are the cornerstones of this good-value, centrally located restaurant.
La Vecina (Tavara West 352, small/large ceviche S8/15; lunch only) There’s else nothing but ceviche on the menú at this homely place, but that doesn’t disappoint.
La Noche (22-2373; Malecón Maldonado 177; sandwiches S8-10; mains S15-25; 7am-late) The friendliest service in Iquitos, the best location, a cool sophisticated vibe and oodles of tasty food: no wonder La Noche is the number one traveler choice for a relaxed Malecón meal. There’s real espresso, a host of gourmet sandwiches (the vegetarian triple can’t be beaten) for lunch, and river fish and crisp salads grace the dinner menu. There is street-front or balcony dining and a chill-out lounge-bar upstairs with sofas.
Chifa Long Fung (23-3649; San Martín