Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [64]
The Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historía del Perú (National Anthropology, Archeology and History Museum; Map; 463-5070; http://museonacional.perucultural.org.pe; Plaza Bolívar, cnr San Martín & Vivanco, Pueblo Libre; adult US$3.20; 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) traces the history of Peru from the Preceramic Period to the early republic. Displays include the famous Raimondi Stela, a 2.1m rock carving from the Chavín culture, one of the first Andean cultures to have a widespread, recognizable artistic style. The building was once the home of revolutionary heroes San Martín (from 1821 to 1822) and Bolívar (from 1823 to 1826) and the museum contains late-colonial and early republic paintings, including an 18th-century rendering of the Last Supper in which Christ and his disciples feast on cuy (guinea pig).
From Miraflores, take a ‘Todo Brasil’ combi from Av Arequipa (just north from Óvalo) to cuadra 22 on the corner of Vivanco, then walk seven blocks up that street. A blue line connects this museum with Museo Larco.
HUACA HUALLAMARCA
Nestled among condominium towers and sprawling high-end homes, the simple Huaca Huallamarca (Map; 222-4124; Nicolás de Rivera 201, San Isidro; adult/child S5.50/1; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a highly restored adobe pyramid, produced by the Lima culture, that dates to AD 200 to 500. A small on-site museum, complete with mummy, details its excavation.
BOSQUE EL OLIVAR
This tranquil park (Map), a veritable oasis in the middle of San Isidro, consists of the remnants of an old olive grove, part of which was planted by the venerated San Martín de Porres in the 17th century.
Miraflores
The city’s bustling, modern hub – full of restaurants, shops and nightspots – overlooks the Pacific from a set of ragged cliffs.
FUNDACIÓN MUSEO AMANO
The well-designed Fundación Museo Amano (Map; 441-2909; www.museoamano.org; Retiro 160; admission free; 3-5pm Mon-Fri, by appointment only) features a fine private collection of ceramics, with a strong representation of wares from the Chimú and Nazca cultures. It also has a remarkable assortment of lace and other textiles produced by the coastal Chancay culture. Museum visits are allowed by a one-hour guided tour only, in Spanish or Japanese.
MUSEO ENRICO POLI BIANCHI
The pricey, private Museo Enrico Poli Bianchi (Map; 422-2437; Cochrane 400; admission S50; 4-6pm Tue-Fri, by appointment only) holds a lavish collection of gold textiles, colonial silver and paintings featured in National Geographic, and is only available by prearranged tours in Spanish.
CASA DE RICARDO PALMA
This house (Map; 445-5836; Gral Suarez 189; adult S6; 9:15am- 12:45pm & 2:30-4:45pm Mon-Fri) was the home of the Peruvian author Ricardo Palma from 1913 until his death in 1919. A listless tour is included in the price.
HUACA PUCLLANA
Located near the Óvalo Gutiérrez, this huaca (Map; 617-7138; cnr Borgoño & Tarapacá, Miraflores; admission S7; 9am-4:30pm Wed-Mon) is a restored adobe ceremonial center from the Lima culture that dates back to AD 400. Though vigorous excavations continue, the site is accessible by regular guided tours in Spanish (for a tip). In addition to a tiny on-site museum, there’s a celebrated restaurant (Click here) that offers incredible views of the illuminated ruins at night.
Barranco
A tony resort back at the turn of the 20th century, Barranco is lined with grand old casonas, many of which have been turned into eateries and hotels. A block west of the main plaza, look for the Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs; Map), a narrow, wooden bridge over an old stone stairway that leads to the beach. The bridge –which is especially popular with couples on first dates – has inspired many a Peruvian folk song.
MUSEO PEDRO DE OSMA
Housed in a lovely beaux arts mansion surrounded by gardens, this undervisited museum (Map; 467-0141; www.museopedrodeosma.org; Av Pedro de Osma 423; admission S10; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) has an exquisite collection of colonial furniture, silverwork and art, some of which dates back to the 1500s. Among the many fine pieces,