Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [65]
GALERíA LUCíA DE LA PUENTE
A magnificent two-story casona is home to Lima’s most prestigious contemporary art gallery (Map; 477-9740; www.gluciadelapuente.com; Sáenz Peña 206; 10:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat). Look for works by cutting-edge painters such as Fernando Gutiérrez, whose bold canvases often skewer Peruvian culture.
West Lima & Callao
To the west of downtown, cluttered lower-middle-class and poor neighborhoods eventually give way to the port city of Callao, where the Spanish once shipped their gold. Travelers should approach Callao with caution, since some areas are dangerous, even during the day.
PARQUE DE LAS LEYENDAS
Located between Central Lima and Callao, the zoo (Map; 464-4282; www.patpal.gob.pe; Av Las Leyendas 580-86, San Miguel; adult/child under 11 S9/4.50; 9am-6pm) covers Peru’s major geographical divisions: coast, mountains and jungle. There are up to 210 native animals, with a few imports (such as hippos). The conditions are OK, and the zoo is well maintained.
In Central Lima, catch buses and colectivos (shared taxis) that travel past the park at Av Abancay and Garcilaso de la Vega in Central Lima. These run roughly every 30 minutes. Taxis from Miraflores start at S10.
FORTALEZA DEL REAL FELIPE
In the 1820s, the Spanish royalists made their last stand during the battle for independence at this historic fort (Map; 429-0532; Plaza Independencia, Callao; admission US$2; 9am-2pm), which was built in 1747 to guard against pirates. It still houses a small military contingent. Visits are by guided tours in Spanish only.
On the western flank of the fort, don’t miss an opportunity to stroll through the truly bizarre Parque Tématico de la Policía (Police Park), a nicely landscaped garden that is dotted with police tanks and life-size statues of policemen in riot gear – a perfect place for those surreal family vacation photos.
Note that the nearby dock area is quite a rough neighborhood; taxis are best.
LA PUNTA
A narrow peninsula that extends west into the Pacific Ocean, La Punta was once a fishing hamlet, and later, in the 19th century, an upscale summer beach resort. Today this pleasant upper-middle-class neighborhood (Peru’s vice president lives here), graced with neocolonial and art-deco homes, is a great spot to stroll by the ocean and enjoy a seafood lunch.
You can take a taxi from Miraflores (about S40). In Central Lima, combis traveling to Callao run west along Av Colonial from the Plaza 2 de Mayo (Map). Take the ones labeled ‘La Punta.’ A good spot to get out is Plaza Gálvez; from here, you can head west all along the waterside Malecón Figueredo, which offers magnificent views of craggy Isla San Lorenzo, just off the coast.
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ACTIVITIES
Cycling
Popular excursions from Lima include the 31km ride to Pachacamac, where there are good local trails open between April and December. Expert riders can inquire about the stellar downhill circuit from Olleros to San Bartolo south of Lima. For general information (in Spanish) on cycling, try Federación Deportiva Peruana de Ciclismo (346-3493; www.fedepeci.org; Av San Luis 1308, San Luis) or the online portal Ciclismo Perú (www.ciclismoperu.com). For organized cycling tours from abroad, see international tour companies, Click here.
Dozens of bike shops are listed in Lima’s yellow pages under ‘Bicicletas.’ Check out the following places:
Bike Tours of Lima (Map; 445-3172; www.biketoursoflima.com; Bolívar 150, Miraflores; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Rentals are available (from S27 for a half-day) and there are organized day tours around Miraflores and San Isidro, as well as Sunday excursions into downtown (from S55).
Perú Bike (Map; 467-0757; Av Pedro de Osma 560, Barranco; 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) A recommended shop that does repairs.
Paragliding
For paragliding off the Miraflores clifftops, contact Peru Fly (99-591-9928; www.perufly.com) or Andean Trail Peru (99-836-4930, 99-836-3436; http://andeantrailperu.com)