Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [74]
Aquisito B&B (Map; 247-0712; www.aquisito.com.pe; Centenario 114; s/d/tr with breakfast S50/80/110; ) Eight simple, immaculate rooms of various sizes make up this cozy, modern B&B run by the energetic Malisa. There is a teeny patio, an ample shared kitchen and all units have cable TV and private bathrooms. There is no sign. An excellent value.
D’Osma B&B (Map; 251-4178; deosma.com; Av San Pedro de Osma 240; s/d without bathroom US$20/29, s US$26, d US$39-45; ) A tranquil family home on a busy street, this five-room B&B has simple, carpeted rooms that surround a diminutive, interior patio. Guests have access to a small kitchenette with refrigerator and microwave; rates include breakfast. Some English and German are spoken. There is no obvious sign; look for the wooden gate.
Hostal Gemina (Map; 477-0712; hostalgemina@yahoo.com; Av Grau 620; s/d/tr with breakfast US$33/48/63; ) The building’s facade may seem plain, but this smart, well-recommended modern hotel, with 31 spacious units, is very welcoming. Public areas are decorated with vintage radios and TVs and the clean, modern rooms are draped in folky textiles. An on-site cafeteria serves breakfast. Credit cards accepted.
Second Home Perú (Map; 247-5522; www.secondhomeperu.com; Domeyer 366; s/d with breakfast from US$85/95; ) Run by the children of artist Victor Delfín, this lovely five-room Bavarian-style casona has private gardens and breathtaking views of the ocean from Chorrillos to Miraflores. Public areas are dotted with Delfín’s sculptures and paintings. Credit cards accepted.
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EATING
The gastronomic capital of the continent, it is in Lima that you will find some of the country’s most sublime culinary creations: from simple cevicherías (ceviche counters) and corner anticucho (beef heart skewer) stands to decorous fusion spots where the cuisine is bathed in foam. Lima’s prime position on the coast gives it access to a wide variety of staggeringly fresh seafood, while its status as a centralized capital assures the presence of all manner of regional specialties.
You’ll find cocktails infused with Amazon berries, nutty chicken stews from Arequipa (ají de gallina) and one of the country’s most exquisite renderings (outside of Chiclayo) of Chiclayo-style arroz con pato (rice and duck), slowly simmered in cilantro, garlic and beer. The city has such a vast assortment of cuisine, in fact, that it’s possible to spend weeks in the city without beginning to taste it all.
Pack your appetite. You’re going to need it.
Central Lima
Miraflores and San Isidro may have the city’s trendiest restaurants, but Central Lima’s downtown spots offer deals and history: from functional comedores (simple dining rooms) packed with office workers to atmospheric eateries that count Peruvian presidents among the clientele. Menús (set meals) in the vicinity of S7 to S10 can be found at many of the cheaper restaurants.
BUDGET
Panko’s (Map; 424-9079; Garcilaso de la Vega 1296; items S3-6) A vast array of sweets, sandwiches and potato salads reside in glass counters under a TV blaring Spanish soaps. The flaky palm-leaf pastries are melt-in-your-mouth delicious.
Pastelería San Martín (Map; 428-9091; Nicolás de Piérola 987; serving of turrón S4.50; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Founded in 1930, this bakery serves what is considered Lima’s finest turrón de Doña Pepa, a dessert associated with the religious feast of El Señor de Los Milagros (Click here): flaky, sticky and achingly sweet, it is best accompanied by a stiff espresso.
Azato (Map; 423-0278; Arica 298; menús S5-8) A cheap and fast spot serving traditional dishes, including a surprisingly well-rendered lomo saltado (beef stir-fry with potatoes, onion and tomatoes).
Villa Natura (Map; 426-3944; Ucayali 326; 3-course menús S7-10; closed Sun) A no-frills veggie pit stop serving hearty stews, pastas and veggie renditions of the potato salads known as causas. There’s no sign; look for the street number over the door.
Queirolo (Map; 425-0421;