Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [75]
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GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS: LIMA’S CUISINE SCENE
You’re in town for a few days (or, God forbid, a few hours) and are now faced with a life-altering decision: where to eat. In Lima – a city where food is treated with as much reverence as religion – this is no easy task. There is an astonishing number of restaurants catering to every budget and taste. Herewith, an abbreviated guide to some of the best:
Anticuchos: Lima’s most tender beef heart skewers can be found in a simple street cart (Anticuchos de la Tía Grima, Click here) and a posh Miraflores eatery (Panchita, Click here).
Ceviche: Sublime renditions of the country’s most seductive dish can be found in places both economical (El Verídico de Fidel, Click here) and upscale (Pescados Capitales, Click here); for something truly different, however, try it seared (Fiesta, Click here).
Criollo cooking: The country’s fusion cuisine – a singular blend of Spanish, Andean, Chinese and African influences – is without parallel at neighborhood cheapie Rincón Chami (Click here) and the super-chic Huaca Pucllana (Click here), both in Miraflores.
Novoandina: First-rate service, encyclopedic wine lists, and sculptural dishes that blend the traditional and the nouveau are at their acme at Astrid y Gastón (Click here) and Malabar (Click here)
Potatoes: Celebrating the humble tuber, Mi Causa (Click here) produces dishes that are as beautiful as they are delectable.
Sandwiches: Mouth-watering slabs of roasted meats heaped on fresh French bread (perfect for hangovers) are tops at El Chinito (Click here) in downtown and El Peruanito (Click here) in Miraflores.
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El Chinito (Map; 423-2197; Chancay 894; sandwiches S10; 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun) Nearly half a century old, this venerable downtown outpost, clad in Spanish tile, is the spot for heaping sandwiches stuffed with a bevy of fresh-roasted meats: turkey, pork, beef, ham – and the most popular, chicharrón (fried pork) – all served with a traditional marinade of red onions, hot peppers and cilantro.
El Cordano (Map; 427-0181; Ancash 202; mains S8-22; 8am-9pm) A Lima institution since 1905, this old-world dining hall has, at some point or another, counted practically every Peruvian president for the last 100 years as a customer (the presidential palace is right across the street). It is known for its skillfully rendered tacu tacu (pan-fried rice and beans) and butifarra (French bread stuffed with country ham).
Rovegno (Map; 424-8465; Arenales 456, Jesús María; mains S10-26, 3-course menús S10-15; 7am-10pm Mon-Sat) This cluttered bakery-deli-restaurant sells an assortment of decent wine, breads, cheeses, ham and olives, plus plenty of pastries in a rainbow of colors. A restaurant dishes out typical Peruvian specialties such as lomo saltado.
Domus (Map; 427-0525; Miró Quesada 410; 3-course menús S15; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) A restored 19th-century mansion houses this modern-yet-intimate two-room restaurant that caters to journalists from the nearby offices of El Comercio. There is no à la carte dining, just a rotating daily list of well-executed Peruvian-Italian specialties that always includes a vegetarian option in the mix. Fresh-squeezed juices accompany this well-tended feast. An excellent value; highly recommended.
La Merced (Map; 428-2431; Miró Quesada 158; menús S7-15, mains S10-30; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) Bustling with business people at lunchtime, the bland, unsigned exterior gives little clue to the gorgeous baroque wood ceiling inside. The menu is long on traditional dishes; at busy times you may have to wait for a table.
Self-Catering
In Central Lima, the best supermarket is the block-long Metro (Map; cnr Cuzco & Lampa; 9am-10pm daily) in downtown,