Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [76]
MIDRANGE
Wa Lok (Map; 447-1329, 427-2750; Paruro 878; mains S10-80; 9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun) One of the best chifas (Chinese restaurants) in Chinatown, this longtime Cantonese spot has a 16-page menu that features dumpling, noodles, stir-fries, casseroles and a good selection of vegetarian options (try the braised tofu casserole). Portions are enormous; don’t over-order.
Salon Capon (Map; 426-9286; Paruro 819; mains S10-40; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun) Across the street from Wa Lok, the smaller Salon Capon also has a lengthy Cantonese menu, good dim sum and a traditional bakery that sells scrumptious, flaky egg tarts (S1.80).
El Verídico de Fidel (Map; www.elveridicodefidel.com; Abtao 935, La Victoria; ceviches S20-32; noon-5pm) Not just a cevichería, but a place of pilgrimage, this hole-in-the-wall across from the Alianza Lima stadium is renowned for its leche de tigre (ceviche broth), served not in the typical shot glass but in a soup bowl, studded with fresh seafood. The ceviches are equally spectacular. This is a rough neighborhood; take a taxi – even in daytime.
Cevichería la Choza Nautica (Map; 423-8087; www.lachozanautica.com.pe; Breña 204; ceviches S20-36, mains S19-32; 8am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun) A surprisingly bright spot for a slightly dingy area, this popular cevichería, tended to by bow-tied waiters, offers more than a dozen types of ceviches and tiraditos (Japanese-style ceviche, without onions). There is also a long list of soups, seafood and rice dishes. There is live music on busy nights.
TOP END
Tanta (Map; 428-3115; Pasaje de los Escribanos 142, Central Lima; mains S29-38; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) One of several informal bistros run by celebrity super-chef Gastón Acurio, Tanta serves Peruvian dishes, fusion pastas, heaping salads and sandwiches. Accompanying the encyclopedic menu is a list of house cocktails – such as the ‘cholopolitan,’ made with pisco, Cointreau, lime and cranberry juices – and a wine list strong on vintages from South America (from S46 per bottle). The food is good (if overpriced), but the desserts are better: don’t leave without trying the heavenly passion fruit cheesecake mousse.
L’Eau Vive (Map; 427-5612; Ucayali 370; mains S30-50, 3-course menús S15; 12:30-3pm & 7:30-9:30pm Mon-Sat) In an 18th-century building with sparkling wood trim is this very simple and somewhat unusual eatery run by French Carmelite nuns. The menu consists largely of French and other continental specialties (think coquilles St Jacques) – with various Peruvian influences. Every night, after dinner (at around 9pm), the nuns gather to sing ‘Ave Maria.’
San Isidro
Chic dining rooms, frothy cocktails and fusion haute cuisine: San Isidro is a bastion of fine dining – and not much else. Those on a budget may prefer to prepare their own meals, or head to nearby Miraflores, where the eats are generally cheaper.
SELF-CATERING
Vivanda (Map; www.vivanda.com.pe; Av 2 de Mayo 1420; 8am-10pm) Lima’s top supermarket has luscious arrays of meats, cheeses, vegetables, baked goods, prepared foods and even a cafe.
MIDRANGE
News Café (Map; 421-6278; Santa Luisa 110; sandwiches S9-26, mains S20-38; 9am-11pm) Bursting with local office types at lunchtime, this casual cafe serves up bounteous sandwiches, pastas, traditional Peruvian dishes and a wide gamut of international newspapers. The best part: the ice-cream stand located at the entrance, which serves delectable scoops made with Andean fruits such as chirimoya and lúcuma.
Como Agua Para Chocolate (Map; 222-0297; Pancho Fierro 108; mains S20-30) A popular Mexican spot that produces the gamut of Mexican staples, including veggie tacos and, of course, margaritas.
Antica (Map; 222-9488; Av 2 de Mayo 732; mains S20-42; noon-midnight) On a street littered with European restaurants, this is one of the most reasonable: a woody, candle-bedecked spot serving house-made pastas, gnocchis and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. There is antipasto, as well as a decent wine list strong on South American brands (from S40).
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