Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [78]
Anticuchos de la Tía Grima (Map; 99-849-3137; www.anticuchosdelatiagrima.com; cnr Enrique Palacio & 27 de Noviembre; anticucho S7; 7-11pm Mon-Sat) The most venerated anticuchos in all of Lima are grilled at this corner cart, which has been tended to by the legendary Doña Grimanesa for more than 30 years. The meat is so tender and the house-made hot sauces so delicious, that it’s no wonder the wait is often more than an hour. The best bet: show up at 6:45pm and wait for Doña Grimanesa to roll up or telephone your order in ahead of time.
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A LA LIMEñA
Many restaurants in Lima tone down the spices on some traditional dishes for foreign travelers. If you like your cooking spicy (picante), tell them to turn up the heat by asking for your food a la Limeña – Lima-style.
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El Peruanito (Map; 241-2175; Av Angamos Este 391; sandwiches S7; 7am-1am) A hopping, informal sandwich spot serving fresh-roasted chicken, ham, turkey and chicharrón sandwiches on fresh French bread – each dressed with marinated onions and slim wedges of lightly fried sweet potato. If you’ve had one too many piscos, these will cure what ails you.
Govinda (Map; 445-8487; Schell 630; 3-course menús from S7; noon-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun) Run by the Hare Krishna, this cheerful cafe serves a Peruvian-Indian fusion of vegetable curries and nonmeat versions of dishes such as lomo saltado.
Dove Vai (Map; 241-8763; Diagonal 228; ice cream S6-9) An Italian ice-cream shop serving an array of flavors, including a mighty fine pisco sour sorbet.
San Antonio (Map; 241-3001; Av Vasco Núñez de Balboa 770; sandwiches S8-16; 7am-11pm) A cross-section of Miraflores society jams into this 50-year-old institution for an infinite variety of sandwiches, as well as a wide selection of baked goods, including a dreamy chocolate croissant (ask for it warm).
Pardo’s Chicken (Map; 446-4790; www.pardoschicken.com; Alfredo Benavides 730; mains S9-21) Lima is littered with rotisserie chicken chains; this one is, hands down, the best.
Café Z (Map; 444-5579; Diagonal 598; sandwiches S10-18; 7am-midnight) A gathering spot for Lima hipsters, this lively cafe has live music, delicious sandwiches (try the Butifarra Z), a mind-boggling number of coffees and herbal teas – in addition to the world’s most uncomfortable chairs.
Rincón Chami (Map; 444-4511; Esperanza 154; mains S10-27; 8am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) A simple, 40-year-old dining hall, with a rotating selection of Peruvian specialties, Chami is renowned for skillfully prepared dishes such as cau cau (tripe stew), as well as milanesa (breaded steaks) as big as a platter.
Mi Causa (off Map; 222-6258; Av La Mar 814; causas S14-23; noon-4:30pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun) A temple to the humble potato and the sculptural dishes that can be produced with it, this inventive eatery dishes up more than 50 (including a dozen vegetarian options) varieties of causa, a traditional Peruvian potato salad. Expect a rainbow’s worth of hot and cold causas, layered with mouth-watering combinations of seafood, chicken, beef, cheese and vegetables, some made with uncommon strains of tuber, such as puca sonqo, which is pink.
Self-Catering
On Saturdays, a small green market sets up at Parque Reducto, off Alfredo Benavides and Ribeyro. Likewise, try the neighborhood’s excellent supermarkets:
Plaza VEA (Map; 625-8000; www.plazavea.com.pe; Av Arequipa 4651; 8am-10pm)
Vivanda (620-3000; www.vivanda.com.pe) Benavides (Map; Alfredo Benavides 487; 24hr); José Pardo (Map; Av José Pardo; 8am-10:30pm)
Wong (Map; 625-0000, ext 1130; www.ewong.com; Óvalo Gutiérrez, Av Santa Cruz 771) A massive supermarket built around the courtyard of a vintage home; look for the baroque-style staircase.
MIDRANGE
Helena Chocolatier (Map; 242-8899; http://helenachocolatier.com; Iglesias 498; chocolates from S3; 10:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri) A longtime artisanal chocolate shop that crafts scrumptious ‘Chocolates D’Gala’, each stuffed with fillings made