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Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [79]

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from pecans, marzipan or raspberries and individually wrapped to resemble small gifts.

Xocolatl (Map; 241-9554, 242-0143; www.xocolatl.pe; Manuel Bonilla 111; chocolates from S3.50; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) Run by pastry chef Giovanna Maggiolo, Xocolatl is a sleek chocolatier specializing in contemporary Peruvian sweets, some sporting designs inspired by pre-Columbian textiles. Expect fillings such as coffee, pisco and Ranfañote, a traditional dessert made with coconut, molasses and nuts.

Haiti (Map; 445-0539; Diagonal 160; mains S12-36) This nearly half-century-old cafe is like stepping into 1960s Lima: waiters in green jackets tend to coiffed ladies and chattering businessmen. It’s a perfect spot to order a pressed pork sandwich and watch the world go by. Be forewarned: those innocent-looking pisco sours pack a wallop.

La Preferida (Map; 445-5180; Arias Araguez 698; mains S13-20, tapas S1-3; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Located a couple of blocks north of Av 28 de Julio, just east of the Vía Expresa, this charming take-out place has gorgeous causas and fresh seafood specialties such as pulpo al olivo (octopus in olive sauce) and choros a la chalaca (mussels with a corn and tomato salsa) served in tapas-sized portions. A few stools accommodate diners.

Bircher Benner (Map; 446-5791; 2nd fl, Av José Larco 413; mains S15-22; 9am-11pm Mon-Sat) A longtime vegetarian restaurant and shop that produces a lengthy list of dishes, including veg-only versions of Peruvian staples such as lomo saltado, as well as a ‘ceviche’ crafted with marinated mushrooms, onions, cilantro, tomato and ricotta.

Manolo (Map; 444-2244; www.manolochurros.com; Av José Larco 608; mains S15-50, churros S4; 7am-1am Sun-Thu, 7am-2am Fri & Sat) Though this popular sidewalk cafe serves a long list of sandwiches, pasta and pizza, it is best known for its piping-hot churros, which go smashingly well with a chocolate caliente espeso (a thick hot chocolate) – perfect for dipping.

La Glorietta (Map; 445-0498; Pasaje Juan Figari 181; mains S16-40) Just off the Diagonal, the tiny Pasaje Juan Figari – nicknamed Pizza Street – is cluttered with pizzerias, each of which look and taste much like the other. La Glorietta is one of the better joints, with decent pies laden with fresh garlic.

El Punto Azul (Map; 445-8078; San Martín 595; mains S18-25; noon-5pm) This pleasant family eatery dishes up super-fresh ceviches and tiraditos, as well as big-enough-to-share rice dishes. Try their risotto with parmesan, shrimp and ají amarillo (yellow chili) – and don’t miss the line-up of tasty desserts. It gets packed on weekends, so show up before 1pm if you want a table. An excellent value.

Quattro D (Map; 445-4228; Av Angamos Oeste 408; mains S20-31, ice cream from S6; 6:30am-11:45pm Mon-Thu, 6:30am-12:30am Fri & Sat, 7-11am Sun) A bustling cafe that serves hot pressed sandwiches, pasta and other dishes, in addition to a diabetes-inducing assortment of sweets and Italian ice cream (including a few sugar-free flavors).

AlmaZen (Map; 243-0474; Federico Recavarren 298; mains S30; 11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sat) A new vegetarian restaurant and teahouse, this soothing spot features a rotating daily selection of organic dishes such as sweet potato and ginger soup, as well as tarts and risottos. Wheat-free and vegan items are also available.

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Panchita (Map; 242-5957; Av 2 de Mayo 298; mains S19-54; 12:30-9pm Mon-Sat; 12:30-5pm Sun) Gastón Acurio’s new restaurant pays homage to Peruvian street food in a contemporary setting. The anticuchos are grilled over an open flame to melt-in-your-mouth perfection. Also worth the cholesterol: the crisp suckling pig with tacu tacu. The lengthy wine list (heavily South American) will help wash it all down.

Mangos (Map; 242-8110; www.mangosperu.com; mains S24-43; 8am-1am Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun) Of all the LarcoMar shopping mall’s ocean-view restaurants at the, this one has the most expansive terrace as well as some of the best food – a broad range of Peruvian and international dishes.

La Trattoria di Mambrino (Map; 446-7002; Manuel Bonilla 106; mains S25-40;

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