Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [80]
Restaurant Huaca Pucllana (Map; 445-4042; www.resthuacapucllana.com; Gral Borgoño cuadra 8; mains S28-60; 12:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 12:30-4pm Sun) This sophisticated establishment overlooks the illuminated ruins at Huaca Pucllana. The menu consists of a skillfully rendered and beautifully presented array of contemporary Peruvian dishes (from grilled cuy to seafood chowders), along with a smattering of Italian-fusion specialties. Save room for the pisco and lemon parfait come dessert.
La Mar (off Map; 421-3365; www.lamarcebicheria.com; Av La Mar 770; mains S39-49, ceviches S29-39; noon-5pm Mon-Fri, 11:45am-5:30pm Sat & Sun) A cevichería done Gastón Acurio-style: La Mar is a polished cement patio bursting with VIPs (note the security guards outside) that serves 10 types of ceviche and almost as many varieties of tiraditos. Can’t make up your mind? Try the degustación, with five different kinds. There are grills, rice dishes and soups, but it’s the ceviche that is tops. Cocktails here include Lima’s best coca-leaf sour.
Tanta (Map; 447-8377; Av 28 de Julio 888) The Miraflores outpost of Gastón Acurio’s restaurant-cafe chain (Click here).
Las Brujas de Cachiche (Map; 444-5310; www.brujasdecachiche.com.pe/ibien.html; Bolognesi 460; mains S30-54) A good place for quality Peruvian cooking, the menu has all the popular dishes (such as ají de gallina), as well as lesser-known specialties such as carapulcra, a dried potato stew. Want to try a bit of everything? Hit the lunch buffet (S75).
Pescados Capitales (off Map; 421-8808; www.pescados-capitales.com; Av La Mar 1337; mains S30-65; 12:30-5pm) On a street that was once home to nothing but clattering auto shops, this contemporary destination (think: artsy warehouse meets Peruvian rustic) serves some of the finest ceviche around. Try the ‘Ceviche Capital,’ a mix of flounder, salmon and tuna marinated with red, white and green onions and bathed in a three-chili crème. A nine-page wine list offers a strong selection of Chilean and Argentinean vintages (from S55).
La Tiendecita Blanca (Map; 445-9797; Av José Larco 111; mains S33-46) A Miraflores landmark for more than half a century, fans of Swiss cuisine will find potato röstis, fondues and a terrific selection of apple tarts, Napoleons and quiches at this graceful beaux arts bistro.
La Rosa Nautica (Map; 445-0149; Circuito de Playas; mains S36-75, 3-course menús S60) Location, location, location. Though you can get the same (or better) seafood elsewhere for less, the views at this eatery on the historic pier are unparalleled. Go during happy hour (5pm to 7pm), when you can watch the last of the day’s surfers skim along the crests of the waves. Take a taxi to the pier and walk the last 100m.
Rafael (Map; 242-4149; http://rafaelosterling.com; San Martín 300; mains S39-65; 1-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight) Don’t let the demure exterior fool you: this is the place in Lima to see and be seen. Here, Chef Rafael Osterling produces a panoply of fusion dishes, such as tiradito bathed in Japanese citrus or suckling goat stewed in Madeira wine. For those who make it past the generously poured cocktails, there is a lengthy international wine list.
Astrid y Gastón (Map; 444-1496, 242-5387; www.astridygaston.com; Cantuarias 175; mains S39-69; 12:30-3:30pm & 6:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Now one of the older outposts of novoandina cooking in Lima, Gastón Acurio’s French-influenced standard-bearer nonetheless remains a culinary force to be reckoned with. His seasonal menu is equipped with traditional Peruvian fare, but it’s the exquisite fusion specialties – such as the seared filets of cuy, served Peking-style, with fluffy purple-corn crêpes – that make this such a sublime fine dining experience. There is a first-rate international wine list (from S46 per bottle).
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