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(off Map; 242-9009; www.restaurantfiestagourmet.com; Av Reducto 1278; mains S40-45; dinner & lunch) Anyone in search of the finest northern Peruvian cuisine in Lima, should make a reservation at this busy establishment on Miraflores’ eastern edge. Not only do they cook up an arroz con pato a la chiclayana (duck and rice Chiclayo style) that is achingly tender, they also serve ceviche a la brasa, traditional ceviche that is given a quick sear before being served, resulting in a fish that is lightly smoky, yet tender. Has to be eaten to be believed. There is a sister restaurant in Chiclayo (Click here).

Barranco

Even as Barranco has gone upscale in recent years, with trendy restaurants serving everything fusion, the neighborhood holds on to atmospheric, local spots where life never gets more complicated than ceviche and beer.

BUDGET & MIDRANGE

A number of informal restaurants serving anticuchos and cheap menús line Av Grau around the intersection with Unión.

Chifa Chung Yion (Map; 477-0550; Calle Unión 126; mains S8-32; noon-5:30pm & 7pm-midnight) Known locally as the ‘Chifa Unión’ – and partially owned by the mayor of Barranco’s mother – this bustling restaurant serves heaping bowls of wonton soup and well-rendered fried rice with langostinos. There is a list of veggie options as well (from S8).

Las Mesitas (Map; 477-4199; Av Grau 341; menús S9; noon-2am) A vintage spot with terra-cotta-tile floors that serves cheap Peruvian classics and an array of recommended desserts. If you’ve been thinking about dipping into suspiro limeño (a caramel-meringue sweet), this would be the place to do it.

El Hornito (Map; 252-8183; Av Grau 209; pizzas S10-37; 1pm-midnight) Known for their pizzas, this central dining venue also offers up a wide range of parrilladas (grilled meats) and pasta dishes. The illuminated vine-covered patio is pleasant at night.

Antica Trattoria (Map; 247-2443; San Martín 201; pastas S20-37; 12:30-11:30pm) A longtime Italian spot with a nouveau-rustic air serves wood-fired pizza, as well as savory concoctions such as fresh ravioli stuffed with crab and tender osso buco with creamy polenta.

La Canta Rana (Map; 247-7274; Génova 101; mains S20-40; 8am-11pm Tue-Sat) An unpretentious 25-year-old place, Canta Rana packs in the locals for its more than 17 different types of ceviche. There is no obvious sign: look for the green walls and the expectant-looking cats sitting outside.

TOP END

Chala (Map; 252-8515; www.chala.com.pe; Bajada de Baños 343; mains S26-64, 3-course lunch menú S50; 1-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) At the top of the narrow stairway that leads to the beach, a revamped casona with a broad terrace is home to this local favorite, which serves modern dishes that blend Peruvian and Japanese flavors. Not to be missed: chicken raviolis bathed in ají de gallina and topped with seared langostinos.

La 73 (Map; 247-0780; Av El Sol Oeste 175; mains S34-39; noon-midnight) This contemporary-yet-cozy neighborhood eatery has an uncomplicated Peruvian-Mediterranean menu strong on Italian specialties such as yellow-potato gnocchi. A pleasant bar serves wine, in addition to eight types of pisco. You may want to start with dessert, however: their crisp, warm churros are orgasmic.

La Punta

A quiet, residential neighborhood with great views of the water, La Punta is perfect for a leisurely lunch.

Manolo (Map; 453-4886; Malecón Pardo s/n, adra 1; lunch only) This humble-looking fish house draws seafood die hards intent on gobbling up fresh ceviches, grilled fish and hearty soups.

La Rana Verde (Map; 429-5279; Parque Gálvez s/n; mains S29-53; lunch only) Located on the pier inside the Club Universitario de Regatas, this waterside spot is ideal for Sunday lunch within view of the Isla San Lorenzo. The dishes are all deftly prepared and the pulpo al olivo is one of the best in Lima.

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DRINKING

Lima is overflowing with establishments of every description, from rowdy beer halls to high-end lounges to atmospheric old bars. In downtown, you can get beer from S6 and pisco sours