Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [91]
But the south coast holds far more depth and diversity than the kilometer upon kilometer of arid desert and coastline viewed from a bus window. These lowlands gave birth to some extraordinary pre-Columbian civilizations, especially the Nazca – remembered for their cryptic lines etched across 500 sq km of desolate land – and the Paracas Necropolis culture, whose burial sites still lie in the sands. Spanish haciendas became the birthplace of Afro-Peruvian music and dance, whose untamed protest strains live on, especially around Chincha.
That said, it’s also the wildness of the territory that brings travelers here today. Pacific beaches issue a siren’s call to surfers, while river runners (white-water rafters) get their feet wet in Lunahuaná. Pisco recently endured a disastrous earthquake, but remains a worthwhile destination for its marine wildlife and rugged coast. Ica is surrounded by vineyards and the monstrous sand dunes of Huacachina. Closer to Chile, bird-watchers flock to the coastal lagoons of Mejía.
Peru’s south coast is an ideal place to let your wanderlust run wild. Just jump off your bus along Carr Panamericana wherever some dusty track catches your eye; you’ll always find something quirky or interesting at the end of these desert roads.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Enjoying the thrill of a swooping flight over the world-famous Nazca Lines (Click here)
Paying a visit to flocks of lounging sea lions, Humboldt penguins and Peruvian pelicans on the Islas Ballestas (Click here)
Flying down giant dunes on a sandboard or dune buggy at the desert oasis of Huacachina (Click here)
Shimmying to Afro-Peruvian beats in El Carmen (Click here), outside Chincha
Rafting first-class rapids and stomping wine grapes in Lunahuaná (Click here)
▪ BIGGEST CITY: Tacna, Population 262,700 ▪ AVERAGE TEMPERATURE: January 23°C to 30°C, July 10°C to 20°C
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PUCUSANA
01 / pop 10,000
This small fishing village, 65km south of Lima, is a popular locals’ beach resort from January to April. The small Pucusana and Las Ninfas beaches are on the town’s seafront and at low tide you can wade to La Isla, an offshore island with a strand of sand. The most exclusive beach in the area is Naplo, 1km away and reached through a tunnel. If you’re interested in fishing or bird-watching, boats can be hired (from S30) at the marina, which is two blocks from the main plaza.
South of Pucusana, off Km 64 along Carr Panamericana Sur, is the turnoff to the village of Chilca, famed for its muddy and mineral-rich lagoons (admission S1; 24hr), one of which is nicknamed La Milagrosa (the Miracle). The bathing pools allegedly have power to heal everything from infertility to acne – and some believers credit this to intervention by aliens in UFOs. A mototaxi (three-wheeled motorcycle rickshaw taxi) from Carr Panamericana Sur to the pools costs about S5 each way.
The best of the simple hotels in Pucusana, El Mirador de Pucusana (430-9228; s/d/tr S30/40/55) has a breathtaking location atop the bayfront with fantastic views. Rooms are basic, but do have hot water. It’s a great place to savor the scenery as you sip on a pisco sour in its restaurant (mains S5-10). Try to distinguish the various shapes (including a pig’s head) that locals claim can be seen in the surrounding hillsides. If you’re hankering for fresh seafood, you’ll find it in the cevicherías (restaurants serving ceviche) that line the boardwalk below.
From central Lima, combis (minibuses) run frequently to Pucusana from Plaza Bolognesi (S5 one-way). Another alternative is to take a taxi from Lima to the Puente Primavera bridge at the intersection of Av Primavera and Carr Panamericana Sur. Most southbound coastal buses along Carr Panamericana Sur can drop you off at Km 57, from where frequent minibuses shuttle