Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [92]
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ASIA
01 / 4000
During the coastal summer, which lasts from January through March, Km 97 on Car Panamericana Sur is home to a sprawling outdoor shopping mall and a dozen electric clubs that make up part of the beach resort called Asia. Beyond the commercial center lie the resort’s private, white-sand beaches where many of Lima’s elite have constructed rows upon rows of low-lying, white-washed abodes. This summer escape for the affluent has sprung up, literally, in the middle of nowhere – where DJs can happily crank up the volume with a clear conscience. However, it firmly shuts its doors from April until December, when all the hottest action migrates back to the capital city. For cheap eats in the area, try any of the small stands selling chicharrón (deep-fried pork) that line Carr Panamericana Sur; a chicharrón and fried sweet-potato sandwich is a surefire cure for that post-discoteca hangover.
Almost any bus along Carr Panamericana Sur can drop you here upon request. Most limeños (inhabitants of Lima) party all night, then retreat to their private homes or catch a bus back next morning, but there are some basic guesthouses on the main boulevard that are quite expensive due to their central location. Otherwise, you can flag down any southbound bus or hire a taxi to reach the beach at Cerro Azul, which has more appealing lodgings.
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CAÑETE & CERRO AZUL
01 / pop 37,000
The full name of this small market town, about 145km south of Lima, is San Vicente de Cañete. Most Peruvian holidaymakers head north of town to Cerro Azul, a beach that’s popular with experienced surfers. It’s a 15-minute walk west of Km 131 on Carr Panamericana Sur, about 15km north of town. There’s also a small Inca sea fort in the area, known as Huarco, but it’s in poor state.
In Cerro Azul, the surfer-friendly Hostal Cerro Azul (271-1302, 9-763-1969; www.cerroazulhostal.com; Puerto Viejo 106; d/tr/q/ste S150/185/200/220) is less than 100m from the shoreline. Hostal Las Palmeras (284-6005; Puerto Viejo; d S195; ) has a gorgeous location looking onto the beach and the pier. On the main commercial strip just back from the beach, Casa Hospedaje Los Delfines (Comercio 723; d/tr S50/60) is an immaculately kept, family-run guesthouse with cold water only. If you’re hungry, beachfront restaurants all serve fresh seafood. Restaurant Juanito (335-3710; Rivera del Mar; mains S20-25; 8am-9pm) is a popular local pick.
From Lima, buses for Pisco or Ica can drop you at Cañete and sometimes Cerro Azul (S5, 2½ hours). Buses back to Lima are invariably crowded, especially on Sunday from January to April. There are also combis between Cañete and Cerro Azul (S1, 30 minutes) or south to Chincha (S2, one hour).
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LUNAHUANÁ
01 / pop 3600 / elev 1700m
Detouring inland from Cañete, a curvy road slopes through the steep-walled Río Cañete Valley and after 38km reaches the pastoral village of Lunahuaná, which offers great opportunities for river running and kayaking. Lunahuaná is also the gateway to one of Peru’s coastal wine areas, with several bodegas (wineries, wine shops and cellars) proffering free samples year-round. The best time to show up is during the second week of March for the wine harvest, Fiesta de la Vendimia. An adventure-sports festival is usually held in late February or early March.
Sights
A rustic bodega producing both wines and piscos, venerable La Reyna de Lunahuaná (99-477-7117; catapalla1@yahoo.es; admission & tours free; 6am-6pm) presides over the main plaza in Catapalla, about 6km east of Lunahuaná. The owners here can teach you the ABCs of pisco (Peruvian grape brandy) and wine production. A one-way taxi ride costs from S6, but you may have to wait until a car shows up for the return. Closer to town, Bodega Los Reyes (284-1206; 8am-8pm) is also generous in its measures. It still allows visitors to get their feet wet – literally – treading grapes the