Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [93]
Nearby archaeological sites in the Cañete Valley include Incawasi, the rough-walled ruins of the military headquarters of the 10th Inca king Túpac Yupanqui, located on the western outskirts of Lunahuaná; and the small pre-Inca fort of Ungara, situated closer to Imperial. Either site can be visited by taxi (Incawasi round-trip S10; Ungara round-trip S30), though there’s really not much left to see.
Activities
River running can be done year-round, but the best months are from December to April, the rainy months in the Andes when the Río Cañete runs high. Adventure-sport championships, including river running, are held here in late February. River running can be done as part of a day tour from Lima, for which most agencies charge around US$80 per person, but costs considerably less if you organize it in Lunahuaná; Río Cañete Expediciones (284-1271; www.riocanete.com.pe) requires a minimum of four people, and trips that last between 40 minutes and two hours cost between S35 and S80 – most of the year they’re suitable for beginners. The tour company is based at Camping San Jerónimo (996-353-921; Km 33 Carr Cañete-Lunahuaná), which also has a rock-climbing wall.
If you’d like to cycle out to visit some bodegas, basic mountain bikes can be rented from many storefronts near the plaza and along Av Grau.
Sleeping & Eating
There are several private campgrounds spread out along the river outside town.
Camping San Jerónimo (284-1271; Km 33 Carr Cañete-Lunahuaná; per person S15) This campground borders the river at the far west of town. Base camp for Río Cañete Expediciones, it has good facilities and a free artificial rock-climbing wall for guests.
Hostal Casuarinas (284-1045; Av Grau 295; s/d S30/60) A couple of blocks from the plaza in the direction of the main road, this secure budget hotel has tidy rooms with TVs and hot showers.
Hotel Campestre Embassy (472-2370; www.hotelesembassy.com; Km 39 Carr Cañete-Lunahuaná; s/d/tr from S73/85/122; ) This upscale hotel farther east of town has a restaurant and a disco. The most expensive rooms have breezy balconies overlooking the river. The minimum stay is two nights during the high season.
Hostal Río Alto (284-1125; www.rioaltohotel.com; Km 39 Carr Cañete-Lunahuaná; s/d S91/147; ) About 1km along the highway east of Lunahuaná, this friendly guesthouse looks down to the river from a shady terrace overrun with plants. Rooms, though plain, are modern and have hot showers.
Refugio de Santiago (436-2717; www.refugiodesantiago.com; Km 31 Carr Cañete-Lunahuaná; r per person incl breakfast S150) This renovated colonial home a few kilometers west of Lunahuaná is the ultimate relaxing getaway. Rooms are rustic but elegant and the grounds feature a fragrant botanical garden and a restaurant that serves tasty local specialties (mains from S23).
Several local seafood restaurants are found around the main plaza and along Av Grau; the local specialty is crawfish.
Getting There & Away
From Cañete, catch a combi to Imperial (S0.80, 10 minutes), from where combis also run to Lunahuaná (S3.50, 45 minutes). Faster colectivos (shared taxis) wait for passengers on the main road, just downhill from the plaza in Lunahuaná, and then race back to Imperial (S4, 25 minutes).
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CHINCHA
056 / pop 194,000
The sprawling town of Chincha is the next landmark, some 55km south of Cañete, at Km 202 along Carr Panamericana Sur. Once a Spanish colonial stronghold, today it’s the beating heart of Afro-Peruvian culture, and it makes an interesting stopover to catch a vibrant music-and-dance performance or visit nearby archaeological sights.
Orientation & Information
The main plaza is a long walk inland from Carr Panamericana Sur, so take a taxi (S5). Banks with international ATMs line Benavides west of the plaza heading toward the market area. Internet cafes are all around the plaza.
Sights
There’s not much to see in the city center, but the outlying sites are fascinating.
EL CARMEN DISTRICT
Chincha is famous for the