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of 36-inch wide top-grade unbleached muslin, folded so selvage edges are together. Machine-stitch with durable thread down the side seam and across the bottom, leaving the top open for filling. Make a stout hem around the opening, through which you’ll run a strong cord to tie the bag shut; the cord will hold the filled bag above a wide container to catch the juice. Wash before using to remove any filler in the fabric. To make a workable substitute for a jelly bag, line a colander with 4 layers of damp cheesecloth and set the colander inside a deep bowl.

Boiling–Water Bath canner.

Jars/glasses in prime condition, with lids/sealers/gaskets ditto. Household scales.

Clock with sweep second-hand for close timing.

Minute-timer with warning bell for longer processing periods.

Sieve or food mill for puréeing (better is a food blender and the ultimate is a food processor).

Jelly (syrup) thermometer or any other accurate thermometer.

Shallow pans (dishpans are fine).

Ladle.

Long-handled wooden spoon for stirring.

Wide-mouth funnel for filling containers.

Jar-lifter.

Sieve or strainer for de-seeding blackberries or similar fruits.

Colander, for draining.

Large measuring cups, and measuring spoons.

Plenty of clean dry pot holders, dishcloths, and towels.

Much paper toweling.

Large trays.

GENERAL PROCEDURES FOR JELLIES, JAMS, AND SWEET PRESERVES

Jellies, jams, preserves, conserves, marmalades, and butters are the six cousins of the fruit world. All have fruit and sugar in common, but differences in texture and fruit-form distinguish one from another.

Jelly. Made from fruit juice, it is clear and tenderly firm. Quiveringly, it holds its shape when turned out of the jar.

Jam. Made from crushed or ground fruit, it almost holds its shape, but is not jelly-firm.

Preserves. These are whole fruits or large pieces of fruit in a thick syrup that sometimes is slightly jellied.

Conserves. These glorified jams are made from a mixture of fruits, usually including citrus. Raisins and nuts also are frequent additions.

Marmalade. This is a tender jelly with small pieces of citrus fruit distributed evenly throughout.

Butters. These are fruit pulps cooked with sugar until thick.

The Four Essential Ingredients

Fruit

This gives each product its special flavor, and provides at least a part of the pectin and acid that combine with added sugar to make successful gels.

Full-flavored, just-ripe fruits are ideal, because their flavor cannot be overpowered by the large amount of sugar needed. However, often up to one-fourth of berries should be underripe, as providing more natural pectin than fully ripe fruit does. But never use overripe fruit: too old to have its proportionate supply of pectin.

Unsweetened frozen fruit makes good jelly and jam.

Pectin

This substance, which combines with added sugar—or other sweeteners, except artificial ones—and natural or added acid to produce a gel, is found naturally in most fruits. Pectin content is highest in lightly underripe fruit, and diminishes as the fruit becomes fully ripe; overripe fruit, lacking adequate pectin of its own, is responsible for a good deal of runny jam and jelly. Pectin is concentrated in the skins and cores of the various fruits: this is why many recipes say to use skins and cores in preparing fruit for juicing or pulping.

Most regular commercial pectin is made from the white pulp under the skin of citrus fruits, although it also may be made from apples. The regular pectin most widely used comes in powdered/granular form in 1¾-ounce packages. Liquid pectin is also available. It come in dual 3-ounce foil pouches. Powdered and liquid pectin are not interchangeable. Use only the one called for in your recipe.

In addition to regular powdered and liquid pectin, various specialized types of pectin that require less sugar than regular pectin or no sugar at all are also available on the market. These are discussed briefly in the introduction to the second major discussed briefly in the introduction