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By Root 797 0

is named for its fibrous texture, not for its affinity for tomato sauce. In fact, I think spaghetti squash is best with all the traditional winter squash seasonings, but especially cream and garlic.

Coconut Curried Winter Squash Soup I

Serves 6

A taste of the tropics is wonderfully warming on a cold night. The heat of the curry is counteracted by the sweet squash and creamy coconut milk. Any squash will work here, but the preferred squash has a creamy, not stringy, texture when puréed.

1 medium buttercup, butternut, or red kuri squash, or 1 small baby blue hubbard squash (3–4 pounds), halved and seeded

2 tablespoons peanut, sunflower, or canola oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely minced

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon curry powder

1½ cups chicken broth or vegetable broth (pages 126–27)

1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons), or to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2 Place the squash skin-side up in a baking dish. Add 1 inch of water to the baking pan. Bake for about 1 hour, until the squash is completely tender when pierced with a fork. Let cool slightly.

3 While the squash cools, heat the oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the garlic, jalapeño, ginger, and curry. Simmer until the spices are fragrant and the garlic just begins to color, about 5 minutes. Do not let the spices scorch or they will become bitter. Remove from the heat.

4 Scoop the flesh from the squash skin. Combine half the squash in a blender with half the spices and half the broth. Purée until smooth. Transfer to a saucepan. Repeat with the remaining squash, broth, and spices.

5 Add the coconut milk and lime juice to the soup. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding salt, pepper, and lime juice as needed.

6 Reheat over medium heat, stirring frequently. Stir in the cilantro and serve hot.

Coconut Curried Winter Squash Soup II

Serves 6–8

Fish sauce works its magic to bring the flavors together in this version of curried squash soup. Also, the squash is steamed rather than baked, a method that could be employed in the previous recipe.

1 medium to large buttercup, butternut, or red kuri squash, or 1 small baby blue hubbard squash (3–4 pounds), cut into large pieces and seeded

2 tablespoons peanut, sunflower, or canola oil

1 onion, diced

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

2 teaspoons curry powder

1½ cups chicken broth or vegetable broth (pages 126–27)

1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk

2–3 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

2–3 tablespoons brown sugar

Salt and white pepper

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

1 Steam the squash over boiling water until completely tender, 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces. Let cool slightly.

2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and curry. Simmer until the spices are fragrant and the garlic just begins to color, about 5 minutes. Do not let the spices scorch or they will become bitter. Remove from the heat.

3 Scoop the flesh from the squash skin. Combine half the squash with the onion mixture in a blender. Add the broth. Purée until smooth and return to the saucepan. Repeat with the remaining squash and coconut milk.

4 Bring the soup to a gentle simmer, stirring frequently; watch carefully because the soup will scorch easily. Add the lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar to taste. Season with salt and white pepper. Taste and add additional salt, white pepper, lime juice, and fish sauce as needed.

5 Just before serving, stir in the cilantro, if using. Serve hot.

Kitchen Note: If you prefer, the squash can be baked as it is in the previous recipe, instead of steamed.

Smoky Black Bean Soup

Serves 6–8

The smoky flavor comes from the chipotle, a smoked and dried jalapeño. It is a terrific soup when made for vegetarians, and it is a terrific soup when made with sausage (see the variation