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2 cups dried black beans, soaked overnight and drained

8 cups water

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 onions, chopped

2 dried chipotles

2 cups tomato purée, or 1 (15-ounce) can unseasoned tomato sauce

1 quart diced tomatoes with juice, or 1 (28-ounce) can

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sour cream, for garnish (optional)

1 Combine the beans with the water, garlic, onions, and chipotles in a large soup pot. Bring to a boil, then skim off any foam that rises to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the beans are very tender, about 2 hours.

2 Remove the chilis from the pot. Discard the seeds and finely chop the flesh; return to the pot. Let the beans cool briefly. Purée in a blender and return to the pot.

3 Add the tomato purée and diced tomatoes along with the juice from the can. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for about 30 minutes to blend the flavors. Serve hot, garnished with a dollop of sour cream, if using.

Variation: Smoky Black Bean Soup with Sausage

Dice 8 ounces andouille or other smoked, fully cooked sausage. Add to the soup along with the tomato sauce.

Tomato-Leek Soup

Serves 6

Sometimes it is best to let the vegetables just speak for themselves. This soup couldn’t be simpler to make. Together leeks and tomatoes make a perfect flavor combination that needs no embellishment. However, meat lovers may prefer it with the addition of sausage. I love it either way.

2 tablespoons sunflower or canola oil

3 large leeks, trimmed and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 quart tomato purée, or 1 (28-ounce) can

6 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth (pages 126–27)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and garlic and sauté until the leeks are limp, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato purée and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes.

2 Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Variation: Tomato-Leek Soup with Sausage

Remove the casings from 1 pound sweet or hot Italian sausage. Sauté in the oil, breaking it up with a spoon, until cooked through, about 8 minutes. Add the leeks and garlic and proceed with the recipe above.

It breathes reassurance, it offers consolation; after a weary day it promotes sociability…. There is nothing like a bowl of hot soup, its wisp of aromatic steam teasing the nostrils into quivering anticipation.

— Louis P. DeGouy

Mushroom Broth

Makes about 3 quarts

One option for a vegetarian broth is a mushroom broth. It has a more pronounced flavor than the vegetable broth and should be used mainly in soups that are enhanced by a mushroom flavor, such as Barley-Vegetable Soup (page 95).

2 tablespoons sunflower or canola oil

1½ pounds mushrooms (any kind), chopped

1 leek, trimmed and chopped

1 celery root, peeled and chopped

2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

4 quarts water

1 cup dry white wine

¼ cup soy sauce, plus more as needed

1 cup dried mushrooms, such as porcini or shiitake (about 1 ounce)

Salt

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the fresh mushrooms, leek, celery root, and garlic, and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms release their liquid, about 5 minutes.

2 Add the water, wine, soy sauce, and dried mushrooms. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour.

3 Strain the broth through a sieve, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Strain again, leaving any particles at the bottom of the bowl. Taste and add salt and additional soy sauce as needed, or leave unsalted to use as a base for soup and grain dishes.

4 Use immediately, or cool and refrigerate. The broth will keep for about 5 days in the refrigerator or 4 to 6 months in the freezer.

Beef Broth

Makes 2–3 quarts

Beef broth is made from bones, which can often be found at the supermarket. If you don’t see any, ask the butcher for help.

4 pounds cracked beef marrow, shin, and/or shank bones, with meat on them

4 quarts water, plus more as needed

1 large