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1 carrot, chopped

1 celery root, peeled and chopped

1 leek, trimmed and chopped

1 bay leaf

10 black peppercorns

Salt (optional) and freshly ground black pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2 Arrange the bones in a single layer in a large roasting pan. Roast for about 45 minutes, turning the bones occasionally, until well browned.

3 Drain the fat from the roasting pan and discard. Remove the bones and set aside. Place the roasting pan over two burners on top of the stove and add 1 cup of the water. Bring to a boil, stirring to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan.

4 Pour the boiling liquid into a large stockpot. Add the remaining 3¾ quarts water, the bones, and the onion, carrot, celery root, leek, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Skim off any foam until no more appears. Simmer over very low heat, partially covered, until flavorful and deeply colored, 4 to 5 hours, adding more water if the bones become exposed.

5 Strain the broth and discard all the solids. Rinse the strainer clean and line it with cheesecloth or paper coffee filters. Pour the broth through the cheesecloth into another bowl or pot. Season with salt and pepper, or leave unsalted to use as a base for soup and grain dishes.

6 Refrigerate the broth for several hours, until a layer of fat congeals on the top and can be lifted off. Refrigerate and use within 4 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

Vegetable Broth

Makes about 4 quarts

The goal with vegetable broth is to make a good-tasting, well-balanced liquor with no one vegetable dominating the flavor.

2 carrots

2 leeks, trimmed

1 large onion

¼ small head green cabbage

1 fennel bulb

4 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 cup dried porcini mushrooms

4 quarts water

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

Salt (optional)

1 Quarter all the vegetables. Combine all the vegetables, herbs, and mushrooms in a large soup pot. Add the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes.

2 Add the wine and black pepper and continue to simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Strain and discard all the solids.

3 Season with salt, or leave unsalted to use as a base for soup and grain dishes. Use immediately, or cool and refrigerate. The broth will keep for about 5 days in the refrigerator or 4 to 6 months in the freezer.

Turkey Broth

Makes about 2–3 quarts

The fall and winter bring festive meals where turkey takes center stage. Here’s how to make broth from a leftover turkey carcass. Turkey broth can be used in place of chicken broth in any recipe.

1 carcass from a roasted turkey Water

1 carrot, cut into chunks

2 onions, cut into chunks

1 celery root, peeled and cut into chunks

1 bay leaf

Salt (optional)

1 Break the carcass into four or five pieces. Cover with about 4 quarts of cold water in a large soup pot. Add the carrot, onions, celery root, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1½ hours.

2 Remove the turkey pieces, and strain the liquid through a sieve, pressing on the solids to extract as much flavor as possible. Remove any meat from the bones and save for another use, such as other soups or turkey salad.

3 Chill the broth for several hours. Skim off the fat that rises to the top and hardens.

4 Season with salt, or leave unsalted to use as a base for soup and grain dishes. Use immediately, or refrigerate. The broth will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or 4 to 5 months in the freezer.

Chicken Broth

Makes 2–3 quarts

I prefer to make chicken broth with dark meat chicken. I think it makes a richer broth.

3–4 pounds chicken parts

1 large onion, chopped

1 celery root, peeled and chopped

4 garlic cloves

4 quarts water

Salt (optional)

1 Combine the chicken, onion, celery root, and garlic in a large soup pot. Add the water. Bring almost to a boil, then immediately reduce the heat and simmer gently, partially covered, for 2 hours. Do not allow the broth to boil.

2 Strain and discard the vegetables. Remove