Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [125]
Thang Loi Resort 077/398 5002. A remote setting, with simple bamboo and wood huts nestled on a hillside. Facilities are basic, with no hot water or fans and electricity in the evening only, but it’s a great place to get away from it all; the snorkelling is excellent too. US$11–50
The Mekong Delta | Phu Quoc Island |
Duong Dong
Though you’ll probably want at some time to go into the main town of Duong Dong, the island’s only settlement of any size, for the post office, internet or to buy supplies in the market, there’s not a lot else to see. There is a small lighthouse and temple (Dinh Cau) situated on a promontory at the entrance to the harbour, which is of no great consequence but does provide good views up and down the coast. The town’s market, on Ngo Quyen, to the left across the bridge in the centre of town, is always bustling and photogenic with its displays of fruit and flowers, and it’s well worth joining the throng of shoppers, especially early in the morning. There’s also a night market that sets up each evening along Vo Thi Sau near the lighthouse, where you can pick up a few souvenirs and check out the good value Vietnamese food stalls. Alternatively, you could visit one of the fish sauce factories in town. Phu Quoc is famed throughout the country for producing top-quality fish sauce – a key ingredient in many Vietnamese dishes. Hung Thanh factory (daily 8–11am & 1–5pm; free), located on Nguyen Van Troi, to the left just beyond the market, welcomes visitors, though you might need a peg for your nose as the aroma is rather pungent.
The Mekong Delta | Phu Quoc Island |
The west coast
The main attraction of Phu Quoc is its fabulous beaches, and the west coast has some of the best. The majority of resorts and guesthouses are strung out to the south of Duong Dong, on Long Beach (Bai Truong) – an appropriate name, as it stretches almost to the southern tip of the island some 20km away. Most resorts have fine stretches of soft yellow sand and swaying coconut palms right in front, and the beach is ideal for sunbathing, sunset-watching and swimming. Beyond the first few kilometres south of town the beach is completely deserted, and the road which runs behind the palm trees provides some classic tropical beach views. About halfway down the beach, the Phu Quoc Pearl Farm (daily 8am–5pm) is worth a look to see how pearls are cultured or to pick up a souvenir. If you’re here for rest and relaxation, you need do nothing more than saunter back and forth between your room, the resort’s restaurant and the beach. If you get restless, you can always rent a motorbike to explore the island or sign up for a boat trip.
The west coast north of town is a bit more rugged, but the beautiful bays tucked along Ong Lang Beach (Bai Ong Lang) are certainly worth visiting, and a few cosy resorts offer the chance to really get away from it all. Ong Lang Beach is much quieter than Long Beach, and has the added attraction of coral reefs teeming with tropical fish just off the coast, which makes it good for snorkelling. North of Ong Lang, there are a few more attractive beaches called Cua Can, Vung Bao and Dai. They have basic restaurants and can be reached by motorbike on a dirt road that follows the coast to the northwest corner.
The Mekong Delta | Phu Quoc Island |
The east coast
The east coast is, so far, largely undeveloped, though it does have a good surfaced road behind it that makes a pleasant change from the constant dust kicked up off the dirt roads around the rest of the island. The most impressive beach here is Star Beach (Bai Sao), which is signposted just north of the T-junction where the road from Duong Dong meets the road up the east coast. Its dazzling white sand and pale blue water are a great attraction for local people at weekends, and a couple of beach restaurants, the My Lan and Ai Xim, do a healthy trade. A little south of Bai Sao, Ice Cream Beach (Bai Kem) is also a blinding white colour,