Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [126]
The Mekong Delta | Phu Quoc Island |
Inland Phu Quoc
Inland Phu Quoc is the kind of island that is ideal for exploration, and there is very little traffic, making it easy to ride a motorbike around, though until the roads are surfaced, you are likely to return at the end of day covered in a film of red dust. Wearing a helmet is compulsory and a face-mask is a good idea too. Over seventy percent of the island is forested at present, and the hills of the north are particularly verdant.
All over the island, and especially in the north, you will pass by pepper plantations, the plants easily identifiable as climbers on three-metre-high poles – at places like Khu Tuong, they welcome visitors to look around. There are also two cleansing streams in the centre of Phu Quoc: Suoi Da Ban and Suoi Tranh. A walk beside them reveals moss-covered boulders, tangled vines and small cascades, though they tend to dry up between January and May, when the trip is not worth it.
In the south of the island, two unusual attractions are located almost opposite each other, the war memorial and the former prison (Nha Tu Phu Quoc; Tues–Sun 7.30–11am & 1.30–5pm; 3000đ). The war memorial, perched on a slight rise beside the main road, consists of three abstract forms, in one of which is cut the shape of a human form, while the prison’s small museum chronicles its use to detain enemies of the state, though there is no English signage.
Coracles on Phu Quoc island
The Mekong Delta | Phu Quoc Island |
Eating and drinking
Duong Dong’s night market(see "Duong Dong") is a great place to sample authentic Vietnamese dishes at very cheap prices. Not surprisingly, every beach resort, apart from the cheapest guesthouses, has its own restaurant; most have reasonable menus and some have sea views, but the quality is erratic and prices are often inflated. Bear in mind if you stay at Ong Lang Beach, you’ll be limited to the restaurant at your resort unless you have a rented motorbike. Long Beach may be busier, but you do get several choices in a small area. Most places listed below operate only as restaurants and bars, and they’re all on or around Long Beach.
Captain Skewer In front of Kim Nam Phuong guesthouse. Set in an attractive building with huge wooden pillars, this place specializes in barbecued skewers of beef and bell pepper, or chicken, onion and grape (about 110,000đ each), though it also has a good range of salads and fillings for rice-paper wrappers.
Gop Gio 78 Tran Hung Dao. Not on the beach, but within walking distance of many resorts, this place serves up tasty Vietnamese dishes (around 30,000–50,000đ) in a no-frills environment.
Le Bistrot On the lane leading to La Veranda resort. Relaxing place with pool table offering French and international dishes (100,000–120,000đ), and with a children’s playground in the garden.
Le Deauville In front of Kim Nam Phuong guesthouse, next to Captain Skewer. French-style preparation of many dishes, such as cassolette of stuffed squid and barbecued chicken Deauville-style. Good prices, around 70,000–85,000đ for a main course, and some wines on offer too.
Lounge On the lane leading to La Veranda resort. Fancy restaurant serving a range of Vietnamese dishes at around 80,000–90,000đ, and a good choice of cocktails too.
Palm Tree On the beach, just north of La Veranda resort. Heavenly, open-sided spot where you can wriggle your toes in the sand while devouring seafood noodles and an ice-cold beer at dirt-cheap prices.
Pepper’s 89 Tran Hung Dao, on the main road near the north end of Long Beach, 077/384 8773. The place to go for pizzas, grills and jumbo salads, with a delivery service too. Most dishes are around 80,000–100,000đ.
Pepper Tree La Veranda resort. The ideal place for a splurge is at this classy, first-floor restaurant in a colonial-style building. Plenty of seafood on offer, such as smoked salmon and lobster, in a refined atmosphere.
Rainbow