Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [131]
Despite all this, Da Lat remains a quaint colonial curio, and a welcome tonic to heat-worn tourists – all in all, a great place to chill out, literally and metaphorically. If the cool air gets you in the mood for action, you could try trekking to minority villages, mountain-biking or rock-climbing, but you’ll need a permit and a guide. Contact one of Da Lat’s tour operators for more details of what’s on offer (see "Listings"). Horticultural enthusiasts might like to time their visit to coincide with the annual Flower Festival, which takes place each December (see www.vietnamtourism.com for exact dates).
The central highlands | Into the highlands | Da Lat and around |
Arrival and information
Buses from Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang and elsewhere arrive at Da Lat bus station, located about a kilometre south of the city centre on 3 Thang 4, from where it is a short xe om or taxi ride into town (20,000–30,000đ). Modest Lien Khuong Airport (063/384 3373) is 29km south of the city, off the road to Ho Chi Minh City: Vietnam Airlines buses (20,000đ) shuttle from the airport to their offices in town (see ""), or you can take a xe om for about $3–5, or a taxi for around $10–12. The handful of tourist offices in Da Lat can all arrange guides, bus tickets, car hire and tours; the main one is Da Lat Travel Services, though Sinh Café and TM Brothers have offices here too. If you plan to go trekking to minority villages, you may need to get a permit from the police and be accompanied by a certified guide. You can skirt around the red tape by signing up for a tour of one or several days with one of Da Lat’s adventure sports operators which also offer mountain-biking, rock-climbing and abseiling outings. Phat Tire Ventures is a reliable outfit; (see "Listings"), for details.
The central highlands | Into the highlands | Da Lat and around |
City transport
Da Lat is too hilly for cyclo, and the horse-drawn carts that were once one of the city’s more attractive features are pretty much a thing of the past (apart from trots around the lake in high season), so for journeys of any distance you’ll have to rely on xe om and taxis. If you’re fit, you might consider renting a bicycle or tandem (about $2 a day), though with all the steep hills, a motorbike makes more sense (around $5–6 a day): both are available from hotels and tour operators. Renting a car and driver for the day (also easily arranged through hotels or tour operators) costs around $40. Alternatively, take a customized tour of the highlands or even the whole country with the Da Lat-based Easy Riders (www.dalat-easyrider.com.vn), who ride late-model big bikes and speak good English. The tours are highly recommended, with prices ranging from around $15 a day for a tour of the main sights in the city to around $75 a day for a longer trip, usually including accommodation and entrance fees to sights. Many hotels and tour operators offer ‘Easy Rider’ tours with inferior guides at inflated prices, so make sure you get the real thing by booking via their website or approaching them where they hang out in the early evening in front of the Hoa Binh I (Peace) Hotel. All riders wear blue jackets and waistcoats stamped with the group’s insignia, but to be doubly sure your rider is genuine, ask to see his badge with name and number, as well as his tour guide licence.
The central highlands | Into the highlands | Da Lat and around |
Accommodation
Enduringly popular with both Western and domestic tourists, Da Lat has a wide range of places to stay, from cheap, windowless rooms to luxury, international-standard hotels. However, if your visit coincides with a public holiday, especially Tet, be warned that prices increase by up to fifty percent, and you’ll need either to arrive early or book ahead.
The densest concentrations of budget hotels lie on Phan Dinh Phung; ask for a room at the back, as the main road can be noisy. Several classy hotels operate downtown, but there are many more out in the open spaces south and west of the city