Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [218]
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The central provinces | Hué |
Nightlife and entertainment
Under the Nguyen emperors Hué was the cultural and artistic as well as political capital of Vietnam. A rich tradition of dance and music evolved from popular culture, from the complex rituals of the court and from religious ceremonies. Though much of this legacy has been lost over the last fifty years, considerable effort has gone into reviving Hué folk songs, Ca Hué, which you can now sample, drifting down the Perfume River on a balmy Hué evening.
Historically the Perfume River was a place of pleasure where prostitutes cruised in their sampans and artists entertained the gentry with poetry and music. While the former officially no longer exist, today’s folk-song performances are based on the old traditions, eulogizing the city’s beautiful scenery or the ten charms of a Hué woman – including long hair, dreamy eyes, flowing ao dai and a conical hat – while she waits for her lover beside the river. Tickets (60,000đ) can be arranged through hotels and tour agents, or you can catch free performances in the courtyard of the Saigon Morin.
If you like your nightlife a bit more upbeat, then try the DMZ Bar at 44 Le Loi for beers, pool and dancing or the friendly Café on Thu Wheels and (see "Eating") for cheap beer and loud music. More laidback options include the Saigon Morin’s rooftop bar.
The city authorities have also instigated a biennial arts festival (held in June) featuring not only folk songs, kite-flying, water-puppetry and other local traditions, but also international groups.
The central provinces | Hué |
Listings
Airlines Vietnam Airlines, Thuan Hoa Hotel, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong 054/382 4709.
Airport bus A privately run bus service shuttles to and from the airport (35,000đ). Organize a hotel pick-up via your reception.
Banks and exchange Vietcombank, 78 Hung Vuong, exchanges cash and traveller’s cheques and has a 24hr ATM outside. More convenient is the exchange bureau outside the Saigon Morin hotel, which is also open longer hours (Mon–Sat 7am–10pm) with a 24hr ATM.
Hospital Hué Central Hospital, 16 Le Loi 054/382 2325.
Internet access If your hotel doesn’t have internet access then head to the backpacker enclave of Hung Vuong and Nguyen Tri Phuong for internet cafés.
Pharmacies You’ll find well-stocked pharmacies at 9 Hoang Hoa Tham (actually round the corner on Tran Cao Van) and 7 Ben Nghe.
Post office The GPO occupies a grand new building at 8 Hoang Hoa Tham, and also has internet facilities. Sub-branches are located at 38 Le Loi and in the station complex.
Taxi For a metered taxi call Mai Linh Taxi (054/389 8989) or Hué Taxi (054/381 8181).
Tours and onward transport Mandarin Café, 24 Tran Cao Van 054/382 1281, mandarin@dng.vnn.vn), Sinh Café, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong (054/384 5022, sinh5hue@dng.vnn.vn), and Green Travel, 8 Hung Vuong (054/384 9643, phigreentravel@yahoo.com), all offer reliable tours of Hué and the surrounding sights, including Perfume River boat trips, the DMZ and Bach Ma National Park. For motorbike tours, contact Café on Thu Wheels, 3/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong (054/383 2241, minhthu1970@hotmail.com) or Mandarin Café. Most places can also help arrange hire cars and other onward transport. Open-tour bus operators with offices in Hué include Sinh Café, Green Travel and An Phu Tourist at 11 Nguyen Tri Phuong 054/383 3897. Buses to Laos leave every morning – Sinh Café go every other day at 6.30am, while Malinhtourism (12 Hung Vuong 054/382 5252) have a daily bus leaving at 6am. Both head to Vientiane ($34) via Savannakhet ($20).
The central provinces - Part 2
The central provinces - Part 2 |
Around Hué
For the most part the Nguyen emperors lived their lives within Hué