Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [219]
Thuan An Beach is a bike ride away, if you have the time and energy, making for an attractive journey across the estuary with views of fish farms to either side, though the beach itself is nothing spectacular. Further afield, one of the most popular excursions from Hué is a whirlwind day-trip round the DMZ(see "The DMZ and around"). Bach Ma National Park(see "Bach Ma National Park") is also within striking distance.
The central provinces - Part 2 | Around Hué |
West along the Perfume River
Hug the north bank of the Perfume River west of the citadel and you’ll stumble across a few interesting sights, including the pagodas of Thien Mu and Van Mieu, the traditional garden houses of Kim Long Village, and the Temple of Hon Chen. Most people arrive on a boat tour, but the first three sights can be visited on an easy bike ride from the centre of Hué (6km; 30min): follow Le Duan (Highway 1) south from the citadel as far as the train tracks and then just keep heading west along the river where the road eventually gets quieter. You’ll pass through the quiet lanes of Kim Long en route to Thien Mu, with Van Mieu a further 500m west. If you’ve got time it’s a pleasant cycle ride on from Van Mieu (see "Van Mieu") along an empty country lane beside the river.
The central provinces - Part 2 | Around Hué | West along the Perfume River |
The Garden Houses
Travelling by road to Thien Mu along the north bank of the river you pass through Kim Long village, a peaceful area of quiet lanes and canals where in the late nineteenth-century mandarins and other Imperial officials built their houses, surrounded by lush gardens. The seven most interesting of these “garden houses” have now been preserved and are open to the public. They’re still lived in and, although there’s no entry fee, a donation is expected (up to 15,000đ would be appropriate). Note that it’s best to avoid meal times and to dress conservatively.
The houses are strung along Phu Mong lane, which heads north from the riverbank just before 86 Kim Long; the turning is a good kilometre west of the train tracks and a little hard to spot, so keep your eyes peeled. The first of the houses you come to, on the right behind an entrance arch at no. 20, was built by one of Emperor Gia Long’s most senior generals. It’s nevertheless a simple structure, consisting of a temple dedicated to the general and the house where his descendants now live. Continuing along Phu Mong lane, take the first turning right to find the next house, second on the left behind a wire-mesh fence, at 2 Diem Tham Quan. This house originally belonged to a minister of foreign affairs under Emperor Tu Duc and is one of the few which still retains the original connecting passage between the house and temple. In front of the temple, a water basin backed by a stone screen represents the lake and mountain required by geomantic principles to defend the family from evil influences. The mangosteen tree, a rarity in Hué, growing behind the screen is said to have sprouted from a seed given to the mandarin by Tu Duc.
Perhaps the most interesting of the garden houses is the last, An Lac Vien, 1c Phu Mong. To reach it, head east for another 500m or so along Phu Mong, take a right fork and then follow the lane round to the end. It was built in 1888 by a junior mandarin under Thanh Thai. His grandson can give you an English-language