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top end continue to fall and there are some excellent bargains to be had – ask about special discounts and promotional rates. Rates have also been dropping – and standards rising – at the budget level, spurred by an explosion of backpacker-oriented places all vying for the tourist dollar. Finding a room shouldn’t cause any problems, even during the Tet New Year holiday, when the rest of the city all but shuts down. Be aware that several hotels adopt the same name, for example there are multiple Prince and Camellia hotels, so you’ll need the exact address if arriving by xe om or taxi. Insist on being taken to the hotel you’ve specified: some drivers will try to persuade you it has closed, moved or changed name, and take you somewhere which pays commission. If this happens, make a note of the vehicle registration number and report it to the hotel you were aiming for so that they can make a complaint.

The best place to look for budget accommodation is in the Old Quarter, and to the west of Hoan Kiem Lake, where you’ll find dozens of private hotels ranging from the most basic dormitories to increasingly ritzy places with air-conditioning, broadband internet access and satellite TV. The city’s most sought-after addresses are in the French Quarter, headed by the venerable Sofitel Metropole and its newer neighbour, the Hilton Hanoi Opera. Here, among the quieter streets and more open spaces, you’ll also find a rash of modern business hotels, but very little in the bargain stakes. North of the centre, there are also a few high-end hotels on the eastern shores of West Lake.

Hanoi and around | Accommodation |

The Old Quarter and west of Hoan Kiem Lake

The following are all marked on the Central Hanoi map "Central Hanoi".

Camellia 3 31 Hang Dieu 04/3828 5704, www.camellia-hotels.com. Friendly staff and spruced-up rooms make this little hotel on the west side of the Old Quarter a decent option. Rates include free internet access and buffet breakfast. US$11–20

Church 9 Nha Tho 04/3928 8118, churchhotel@vnn.vn. Prices are surprisingly affordable at this classy new boutique hotel on one of Hanoi’s trendiest streets. The standard rooms aren’t large, but all are furnished to a high standard, featuring tasteful creams, natural wood and original artworks. US$51–75

Discovery 22 Luong Ngoc Quyen 04/3926 2462, www.discoveryhotel9.com. This friendly, family-run hotel tucked up an alley off Luong Ngoc Quyen is a welcome addition to Hanoi’s budget scene. Its six rooms come with fridges, phones, TVs, a/c and minuscule en-suite bathrooms. US$11–20

Hanoi Backpackers’ Hostel 48 Ngo Huyen 04/3828 5372, www.hanoibackpackershostel.com. With a superb location, super-friendly staff, free internet access and quiet, comfy dorm rooms, it’s no wonder that Vietnam’s first hostel is usually packed to the gills with fun-seeking backpackers. Staff also run regular barbeque nights on the rooftop bar, and organize hugely popular – some might say debauched – tours of Ha Long Bay (See "Ha Long Bay"). Bunk beds $7.50 including breakfast; rooms US$11–20

Hanoi Elegance 4, 3 Yen Thai 04/3938 0963, www.hanoielegancehotel.com. Newest and most reasonably priced of this swish new chain, with three other branches in Hanoi (See "The Old Quarter and west of Hoan Kiem Lake"). It gets the basics spot on, and is full of nice touches that make the price-tag reasonable when it would otherwise be a little high for the room size. US$31–50

Holiday Hotel 9 Ngo Huyen 04/3938 0565. On a relatively quiet sidestreet just north of the cathedral, this small hotel has amiable staff, and large, well-furnished rooms at reasonable prices. US$21–30

Hong Ngoc 39 Hang Bac 04/3926 0322, hongngochotel@hn.vnn.vn. Prices a little above the norm reflect the high standard of fixtures and fittings, which include safety boxes in every room, generous bathrooms and furniture that’s a touch different. It’s also spotlessly clean. US$21–30

Lucky 12 Hang Trong 04/3825 1029, www.luckyhotel.com.vn. Some of the furniture could do with upgrading, but overall this is the best of the bunch along Hang