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or jaunt off along side tracks. Either a four-wheel-drive jeep or Landcruiser, or a motorbike, is recommended; the cost of hiring a jeep and driver (for three to four passengers) in Hanoi averages around $60 per day, while scooters and motorbikes go for between $5 and $8 per day. When planning your route, base your itinerary on an average speed of about 40km per hour. Whether you travel by public transport or with your own vehicle, you need to allow around six days’ actual travelling time to cover the northwestern region; by cutting out side-trips to Dien Bien Phu and Mai Chau you can reduce this to a minimum of four days on the road. Touring the entire northeast requires at least six days including a tour of Ha Giang Province, but more if you want to spend time on Ba Be Lake, or visit Pac Bo Cave or Ban Gioc Waterfall near Cao Bang. Bear in mind that travelling these roads is unpredictable, becoming downright hazardous during the rains (See "When to go"), and it’s advisable to allow some flexibility in your programme. If you’ve got only limited time, Sa Pa, Mai Chau and Ba Be National Park make rewarding two- or three-day excursions out of Hanoi, either by public transport or hired vehicle. The other alternative is to join an organized tour with one of Hanoi’s tour agencies.

The major towns in the north have ATMs, but in smaller towns you’ll have to make sure you bring enough dong and dollars with you: the odd bank may also change traveller’s cheques.

The far north |

When to go

The best time to visit the northern mountains is from September to November or from March to May, when the weather is fairly settled with dry sunny days and clear cold nights. Winters can be decidedly chilly, especially in the northeast where night frosts are not uncommon from December to February, but the compensation is daybreak mists and breathtaking sunrise views high above valleys filled with early-morning lakes of cloud. The rainy season lasts from May to September, peaking in July and August, when heavy downpours wash out bridges, turn unsealed roads into quagmires and throw in the occasional landslide for good measure. Peak season for foreign tourists is from September to November, while the rainy summer months of July and August are when Hanoians head up to the mountains to escape the stifling heat of the delta.

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The far north | When to go |

The northern minorities

Around six million minority people (nearly two-thirds of Vietnam’s total) live in the northern uplands, mostly in isolated villages. The largest ethnic groups are Thai and Muong in the northwest, Tay and Nung in the northeast, and Hmong and Dao dispersed throughout the region. Historically, all these peoples migrated from southern China at various times throughout history: those who arrived first, notably the Tay and Thai, settled in the fertile valleys where they now lead a relatively prosperous existence, whereas late arrivals, such as the Hmong and Dao, were left to eke out a living on the inhospitable higher slopes (for more on these diverse groups, see "Vietnam’s ethnic minorities"). Despite government efforts to integrate them into the Vietnamese community, most continue to follow a way of life little changed over the centuries. For an insight into the minorities’ traditional cultures and highly varied styles of dress, visit Hanoi’s informative Museum of Ethnology or the Museum of Ethnology in Thai Nguyen (See "Museum of Ethnology") before setting off into the mountains.

The far north | When to go | The northern minorities |

Visiting minority villages

The remoteness of Vietnam’s minority villages provides much of their appeal, though many are easily accessible from hub towns such as Sa Pa, Bac Ha, Son La, Mai Chau, Ba Be and Cao Bang. A popular, hassle-free way to visit is to join one of the organized trips offered by Hanoi tour agencies (See "Tour agents"). The usual destinations are Sa Pa and Bac Ha, coinciding with the Sunday market, or Mai Chau, with the standard package including guided visits to at least two different minorities