Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [306]
The far north | When to go | The northern minorities |
Village etiquette
Behaviour that we take for granted may cause offence to some ethnic minority people; remember you’re a guest. Apart from being sensitive to the situation and keeping an open mind, the following simple rules should be observed when visiting the ethnic minority areas.
• Dress modestly, in long trousers or skirt and T-shirt or shirt.
• Be sensitive to people’s wishes when taking photographs, particularly of older people who are suspicious of the camera; always ask permission first.
• Only go inside a house when invited and remove your shoes before entering.
• Small gifts, such as fresh fruit from the local market, are always welcome. However, there is a view that even this can foster begging, and that you should only ever give in return for some service or as a sign of appreciation for hospitality. A compromise is to buy craft work produced by the villagers – most communities should have some embroidery, textiles or basketry for sale.
• As a mark of respect, learn the local terms of address, either in dialect or at least in Vietnamese, such as chao ong, chao ba(See "Greetings and small talk").
• Try to minimize your impact on the often fragile local environment; take litter back to the towns and be sensitive to the use of wood and other scarce resources.
• Growing and using opium is illegal in Vietnam and is punished with a fine or prison sentence; do not encourage its production by buying or smoking opium.
The far north | When to go | The northern minorities |
Trekking practicalities
It’s important to wear the right clothing when walking in these mountains: strong boots with ankle support are the best footwear, though you can get away with training shoes in the dry season. Choose thin, loose clothing – long trousers offer some protection from thorns and leeches; wear a hat and sunblock; take plenty of water; and carry a basic medical kit. If you plan on spending the night in a village you’ll need warm clothing as temperatures can drop to around freezing, and you might want to take a sleeping bag, mosquito net and food, though these are usually provided on organized tours. Finally, dogs can be a problem when entering villages, so it’s a good idea to carry a strong stick when trekking, and always be watchful for the poisonous snakes that are common in this area.
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The far north |
The northwest
Vietnam’s most mountainous provinces lie immediately west of the Red River Valley, dominated by the country’s highest range, Hoang Lien Son. Right on the border where the Red River enters Vietnam sits Lao Cai Town, a major crossing point into China and gateway to the former hill station of Sa Pa and nearby Bac Ha, both now firmly on the tourist map for their colourful minority groups and weekly markets. From Sa Pa a road loops west across the immense flank of Fan Si Pan, the country’s tallest peak, to join the Song Da (Black River) Valley running south, through the old French garrison towns of Muong Lay (formerly Lai Chau, see "Trading places" for more on changing names) and Son La, via a series of dramatic passes to the industrial town of Hoa Binh on the edge of the northern delta. The only sight as such is the historic battlefield of Dien Bien Phu, close to the Lao border, but it’s the scenery that makes the diversion worthwhile. Throughout the region, sweeping views and mountain grandeur contrast with ribbons of intensively cultivated valleys, and here more than anywhere else in Vietnam the ethnic minorities have retained their traditional dress, architecture and languages. After Sa Pa, the most popular tourist destination in these mountains is Mai Chau,