Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [308]
Travellers entering China occasionally have their guidebooks to the country confiscated (hiding it might help), while those entering Vietnam at Lao Cai may be asked for a “fee” of a couple of dollars for paperwork, processing or the like.
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The far north | The northwest |
Sa Pa and around
Forty kilometres southwest of Lao Cai and the tourist capital of Vietnam’s mountainous north, SA PA is perched dramatically on the western edge of a high plateau, facing the hazy blue peak of Fan Si Pan. Its refreshing climate and vaguely alpine landscape struck a nostalgic chord with European visitors, who travelled up from Lao Cai by sedan chair in the early twentieth century, and by 1930 a flourishing hill station had developed, complete with tennis court, church and over two hundred villas. Nowadays only a handful of the old buildings remain, the rest lost to time and the 1979 Chinese invasion, as well as those involved in the current hotel development spree. Although height restrictions are finally being enforced on new buildings, the damage has already been done and Sa Pa’s days as an idyllic haven in the hills have been concreted over. However, what the modern town lacks in character is more than compensated for by its magnificent scenery, and it makes an ideal base for tours of the area’s varied collection of minority villages.
The region is home to many ethnic groups, principally Hmong, Dao and Giay. (For more on minority peoples see "Vietnam’s ethnic minorities".) The group most frequently seen in Sa Pa is the Black Hmong, who are not intimidated by the presence of foreigners in their midst. In fact, young Hmong girls can often be seen walking hand in hand with Westerners they have befriended prior to making their sales pitch. By contrast, the Red Dao, another common group here, are very shy and not at all happy to be photographed, despite their eye-catching dress.
Sa Pa’s invigorating air is a real tonic after the dusty plains, but cold nights make warm clothes essential throughout the year: the sun sets early behind Fan Si Pan, and temperatures fall rapidly after dark. During the coldest months (Dec–Feb), night temperatures often drop below freezing and most winters bring some snow, so it’s worth finding a hotel room with heating. Often a thick fog straight out of a Sherlock Holmes novel can creep over the whole town, lending a spooky feel to the market. You’ll find the best weather from September to November and March to May, though even during these months cold, damp cloud can descend, blotting out the views for several days.
The far north | The northwest | Sa Pa and around |
Arrival, information and transport
Though many people visit Sa Pa on an organized tour from Hanoi, the town is well set up for independent travel. The most popular route is by train to Lao Cai, and then the connecting tourist bus (40,000đ) up to Sa Pa; while the night train saves on both time and accommodation, a daylight journey gives great views along the Red River Valley. The tourist buses drop off on Cau May, Sa Pa’s main street.
Heading back to Lao Cai, local buses (also 40,000đ) leave from various points, including Cau May and the church. Guesthouse owners can also often arrange a pick-up, organize jeeps for small groups back to Lao Cai and book train tickets; note that hard sleeper and soft seat tickets on the night train are often in short supply at Lao Cai, so to be sure of a place book in advance in Sa Pa. Several private operators now attach luxury carriages onto the Hanoi–Sa Pa night trains, including the Victoria Express, reserved for guests at the Victoria Sapa Hotel(see "Accommodation"), and the Pumpkin Train (www.et-pumpkin.com), and the Fanxipan Express, which can both be booked through Hanoi travel agents (See "Tour agents").
Though there’s a dedicated tourist information office (daily 7.30–11.30am & 1.30–5pm) at