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Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [309]

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the top of Cao May, Sa Pa’s guesthouses remain the best source of advice on visiting minority villages; guides are available for around $15–20 per day. Trips offered by Topas Travel at 24 Muong Hoa (020/387 1331, www.topas-adventure-vietnam.com) and Handspan Adventure Travel in Hanoi (04/3926 2828, www.handspan.com) are safe and popular, though fierce competition means that you’ll find far lower prices if you shop around. The tourist office sells detailed walking maps of the area, though most agencies hand out their own versions for free.

The far north | The northwest | Sa Pa and around |

Accommodation


Despite the glut of guesthouses and hotels in Sa Pa, rooms can still be in short supply in the summer months, pushing up prices by as much as fifty percent. Prices also go up at weekends from September to November, when the streets are busy with foreigners, but there are usually enough beds to go round. Since weekend hotel prices are higher and the town crawling with tourists, it’s worth considering a midweek visit. Needless to say, rooms with views command higher prices. Foreigners can also now stay in many of Sa Pa’s surrounding minority villages; guesthouses and travel agencies can help with arrangements.

Baguettes et Chocolat Thac Bac 020/387 1766, hoasuaschoolsp@hn.vnn.vn. Run by the Hoa Sua School for disadvantaged youth, this is a quiet and comfy place that looks over the town. It has only two twins and two doubles, but the delightful decor and friendly service make it popular. The price includes breakfast in the fantastic ground-floor café. US$11–20

Bamboo Sa Pa Muong Hoa 020/387 1075, bamboosapa@hn.vnn.vn. Some of the smartest rooms in town, with excellent views, bathtubs and fake fireplaces. Minority shows in the large restaurant at weekends. US$31–50

Casablanca Hotel Dong Loi 020/387 2667,guesthousecasablancasapahotel@gmail.com. By far the best value of Sa Pa’s growing army of boutique hotels, with gorgeously decorated rooms – all with satellite TV – and a friendly, on-the-ball owner. US$21–30

Cat Cat View Cat Cat Rd 020/387 1946, www.catcathotel.com. One of the town’s longest-standing mini-hotels, Cat Cat has a building on each side of the road and a huge variety of rooms, some with fantastic panoramic views across to Mount Fan Si Pan. Popular with budget travellers who socialize on the communal balconies. US$10 and under–50

Chau Long 24 Dong Loi 020/387 1245, www.chaulonghotel.com.vn. Small but smart rooms, all with bathtubs, in this attractive building. Opposite, the pricier four-star wing has excellent facilities and better views. US$31–75

Friendly Hotel 11 Muong Hoa 020/387 3689. The best budget choice in town has amiable service, fantastic views from some upper-floor rooms, and bedding that puts many of the big boys to shame. Breakfast, however, is poor value for money – head elsewhere. US$10 and under

Mountain View 52 Cau May 020/387 1334. A popular choice, with bright, clean, comfy rooms, and good vistas. Its outdoor restaurant (see "Eating and drinking") is a great place to watch the sun go down. Slightly cheaper, but slightly shabbier, is the Royal, a sister hotel across the road. US$10 and under–30

Ocean Hotel 18 Pham Xuan Huan 020/387 1573. Though the service is sub-par and little English is spoken, corner rooms at the Ocean (also known as the Dai Duong) have one meaty advantage – there’s almost as much window as there is wall, making for great views. US$11–20

Pumpkin Hotel 42 Cau May 020/387 2350, pumpkinsapa@gmail.com. The owners at this cheapie have aimed for a fresh look with their peach-and-lemon paint scheme, and views are good from the communal balconies; just watch out for the trinket-selling Hmong girls that often take up residence on the front steps. US$11–20

Queen Muong Hoa 020/387 1301, sapaqueenhotel@yahoo.com. Getting on in years, but this budget choice in the centre is well kept and friendly, and has some of the cheapest rooms in town. Most of them have decent views, but can be noisy. US$10 and under

Sapa GoldSea Hotel 58 Fanxipan 020/387 2180, www.sapagoldsea-hotel.com.vn.

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