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San Francisco - Alison Bing [134]

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Sunday brunches of inch-thick ‘Emperor’s Pancakes’ studded with brandied raisins.

STACKS Map American $

415-241-9011; www.stacksrestaurant.com; 501 Hayes St; 7am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, to 3:30pm Sat & Sun; 6, 7, 21, 71

The kitschy urns of artificial flowers and faux-garden decor are more Branson-Missouri motel than Cali cafe, but the fluffy-crispy wheat germ pancakes and crepes stuffed with pesto, portobello and roast chicken are fresh California takes on brunch. The prices may seem high until you get your loaded plate, and realize that you could use it for a boogie board.

PAULETTE MACARONS Map Dessert $

415-864-2400; www.paulettemacarons.com; 437 Hayes St; 11am-7pm Tue-Sat, noon-6pm Sun & Mon; 5, 21

Sorry, Oreo: the competition for the ultimate sandwich cookie is down to Paulette’s Sicilian pistachio and passionfruit French macarons. Declare a winner from your seat on a macaron-shaped pouf, or go for a second championship round: caramel fleur-de-sel salt and violet cassis.

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BEST STREETS FOR EATS

The perennial question of where to go out for dinner only gets more complicated with the vast variety and quality of choices in San Francisco, but there is an upside. Instead of booking a table weeks in advance for a Friday night, you can just head to a major culinary strip and take your pick of restaurants with appealing menus. The obvious places to try this approach would be Columbus Ave in North Beach for Italian or Grant St in Chinatown for Chinese, but actually there are better choices available elsewhere.

In North Beach, try the Italian restaurants to the east and west of Washington Square Park and upper Grant Ave.

For memorable Chinese options, venture beyond Chinatown to the outer Richmond and inner Sunset, especially along upper Geary Blvd between 15th and 30th Aves and around 9th Ave and Irving St.

For even more eclectic dining choices, Clement St in the inner Richmond offers standout Singaporean, French, Burmese and Vietnamese options, and Irving St between 19th and 28th Aves in the outer Sunset spoils you for choice, with memorable Middle Eastern, Hawaiian and Japanese dining.

There’s more than Mexican food to Mission St, with organic Japanese, high-end Californian, cheap-o Thai and authentic Peruvian tucked in among the taquerias (taco restaurants) between 16th and 30th Sts.

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GOLDEN GATE PARK & THE AVENUES

The best value for authentic ethnic foods and intriguing California variations on them is found out in the Avenues. Should you find your way to a spot serving delicious eats, you might be sworn to secrecy, since SF foodies protect their neighborhood joints as fiercely as California surfers defend their favorite breaks. Key foodie destinations include Clement St east of Park Presidio for Taiwanese, French, Thai and more, and Geary Blvd west of Park Presidio for Cal-Moroccan, dim sum, sushi, Polish delis and then some. The Sunset District has budget ethnic eating places along Irving St from 5th Ave all the way to 25th Ave, and along the last blocks of Judah St near the Ocean Beach. Come early if you want a spot, since service often winds down by 9pm.

SPRUCE Map Californian $$$

415-931-5100; www.sprucesf.com; 3640 Sacramento St; 11:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-10pm Mon-Sun, bar & lounge 11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri; 1, 2, 4, 33

VIP all the way, with studded ostrich-leather chairs, mahogany walls and your choice of 1000 wines. Expense-accounters forget business and feast on pork tenderloin with crispy pork belly, and ladies who lunch dispense with polite conversation and tear into lavish salads of warm duck confit, plums, and greens grown on the restaurant’s own organic farm.

PPQ DUNGENESS ISLAND Map Seafood $$$

415-386-8266; 2332 Clement St; 11am-10pm Wed-Mon; 1, 2, 29, 38;

Dungeness crab season lasts most of the year in San Francisco, which means now is a fine time to enjoy one whole atop garlic noodles or dredged in peppercorn-laced flour and lightly fried, for a typical market price of about $20 per person (depending on weight and season). Ignore everything

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