San Francisco - Alison Bing [135]
KABUTO Map Californian, Sushi $$
415-752-5652; www.kabutosushi.com; 5121 Geary Blvd; lunch Tue-Sat, dinner Tue-Sun; 38
Even doubting sushi-traditionalists and Japanese-food agnostics find themselves worshipping at the sushi bar of Kabuto, a former hot-dog place that’s become a temple of sushi innovation. Every night there’s a line out the door to witness sushi chef Eric top nori-wrapped sushi rice with foie gras and ollalieberry reduction, ono (Hawaiian wahoo fish) with grapefruit and crème fraîche, and the most religious experience of all: the 49er oyster with sea urchin, caviar, a quail’s egg and gold leaf, chased with rare sake.
AZIZA Map Moroccan, Californian $$
415-752-2222; www.aziza-sf.com; 5800 Geary Blvd; dinner Wed-Mon; 2, 29, 38;
Mourad Lahlou’s inspiration is Moroccan and his produce organic Californian, but his flavors are out of this world: quail is a major sensation with huckleberries and cumin-orange glaze, and the prawn tagine with Meyer lemons is pizzazz in a pot. Glitz is kept to a minimum and lighting low, so as not to distract you from desserts of pecan tartlets with sea-salt caramel ice cream.
NAMU Map Korean, Californian $$
415-386-8332; www.namusf.com; 439 Balboa St; 5-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm & 5:30-10:30pm Sat & Sun; 5, 21, 31, 38
SF’s unfair culinary advantages – top-notch organic ingredients, Silicon Valley inventiveness, and deep roots in Pacific Rim cuisine – are elegantly showcased in Korean-inspired small plates ($9 to $15) of buttery kampachi fish with chili oil and fleur de sel, bacon-wrapped enoki mushrooms, and Niman Ranch Kobe beef and organic vegetables in a sizzling stone pot.
TON KIANG RESTAURANT Map Chinese, Dim Sum $$
415-387-8273; www.tonkiang.net; 5821 Geary Blvd; 10am-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-9:30pm Fri, 9:30am-9:30pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; 2, 29, 38;
The reigning champion of dim sum runs laps around the competition, pushing trolleys laden with fragrant, steaming bamboo baskets. Don’t bother asking for an explanation: choose some on aroma alone, and ask for the gao choy gat (shrimp and chive dumplings), dao miu gao (pea tendril and shrimp dumplings) and jin doy (sesame balls) by name. A running tally is kept at your table, so you could conceivably quit while you’re ahead of the $20 mark – but wait, here comes another cart…
DRAGONFLY Map Vietnamese $$
415-661-7755; www.dragonfly420.com; 420 Judah St; lunch & dinner; 44, 66, 71, N;
You’d think this place was high-end from the sunken dining room, garlic noodles with lavish heapings of Dungeness crab, and shaking beef that threatens to steal the crown from Slanted Door’s version – but prices and service are plenty friendly. Desserts and starter pâté aren’t standouts, so load up on mains served family-style.
HALU Map Japanese $$
415-221-9165; 312 8th Ave; 5-10pm Tue-Sat; 2, 38, 44
Entering Halu is like wandering into a scene from Yellow Submarine: rare Beatles memorabilia plasters this five-table yakitori joint, where the ramen is reliably toothsome and your choice of chicken parts comes skewered on a stick.
BURMA SUPERSTAR Map Burmese $$
415-387-2147; www.burmasuperstar.com; 309 Clement St; lunch & dinner; 1, 2, 38, 44
Yes, there’s a wait, but do you see anyone walking away? Blame it on creamy, fragrant catfish curries and la pat, a traditional Burmese green-tea salad tarted up with lime and dried shrimp. Reservations aren’t accepted, so ask the host to call you at the cafe across the street, and enjoy a glass of wine while you wait.
BE MY GUEST THAI BISTRO Map Thai $
415-386-1942; www.bemyguestthaibistro.com; 951 Clement St; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun, dinner Mon; 1, 2, 28, 38, 44;
For mod orange and white decor, a full cocktail bar, and clever variations of Thai themes, there’s only one thing to say: Be My Guest. The marinated Volcano Chicken is served flaming and melts in your mouth, while Mango Tango Prawns and Sea Bass Edamame bring surf to California turf with tangy, earthy flavors.
ROADSIDE BBQ Map American $
415-221-7427; www.roadside-bbq.com; 3751 Geary Blvd; 11:30am-10pm