San Francisco - Alison Bing [136]
Generous $8 pulled-pork sandwiches and $10 racks of ribs are slow-cooked in a smoker, and their baked beans, sweet-potato fries and coleslaw ‘roadsides’ are made fresh from scratch – diets are definitely roadkill here.
LOUIS Map American $
415-387-6330; 902 Point Lobos Ave; 6:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun, to 8pm in summer; 5, 18, 31
The newfangled and sadly soulless Cliff House can’t compare to old-school Louis just up the street, with its Pacific views, ’70s brown-and-orange decor, and hearty diner fare confidently slapped down in front of you by waitstaff who know you’ll be back for more. At brunch on weekends, get your name on the list, then explore Sutro Baths until your 20-minute wait is up.
SPICES Map Szechuan, Chinese $
415-752-8884; 294 8th Ave; 11am-11pm; 1, 2, 28, 38, 44
The menu reads like an oddly dubbed Hong Kong action flick, with dishes labeled ‘explosive!!’ and ‘stinky!’ But the chefs can call zesty pickled Napa cabbage with chili oil, silky ma-po tofu, and brain-curdling spicy chicken whatever they want – it’s definitely worthy of exclamation. When you head towards the kitchen for the bathroom, the chili aroma will make your eyes well up – or maybe that’s just gratitude. Cash only.
TAIWAN RESTAURANT Map Chinese, Taiwanese $
415-387-1789; 445 Clement St; 11am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; 1, 2, 33, 38, 44;
Feast for days on heaping, housemade, sesame hot-sauce noodles, dumplings made fresh to order, smoky dry braised green beans, and feisty black bean chicken. The pink and chrome ’80s decor just goes to show that the Taiwan is single-minded in its pursuit of the most lavish banquet for four you’ll ever get this cheap.
YUM YUM FISH Map Japanese, Sushi $
415-566-6433; www.yumyumfishsushi.com; 2181 Irving St; 10:30am-7:30pm; 71, N;
Watch and learn as Yum Yum’s sushi chef lovingly slices generous hunks of fresh sashimi, preparing a platter to order with your special maki needs in mind. Rolls can be made specially for vegans for as little as a dollar per order, and if you want sustainable sushi, bring your Seafood Watch Card and order accordingly.
TROUBLE COFFEE Map Cafe $
415-682-4732; www.troublecoffee.com; 4033 Judah St; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun; N
Coconuts are an unlikely find by blustery Ocean Beach, but Trouble Coffee happens to like unlikelihood. Hence the ‘Build Your Own Damn House’ breakfast special: coffee, thick-cut cinnamon-laced toast, and an entire young coconut. Surfers, stoners and surrealists in need of a snack, you must be looking for Trouble.
SUNRISE DELI Map Middle Eastern $
415-664-8210; 2115 Irving St; 9am-9pm; 71, N;
A hidden gem in the fog belt, Sunrise dishes up what is arguably the city’s best smoky baba ghanoush, mujeddrah (lentil-rice with crispy onions), garlicky foul (fava bean spread) and crispy falafel, either to go or to enjoy in the old-school cafe atmosphere. Local Arab American hipsters confess to passing off the Sunrise’s specialties as their own home cooking to older relatives.
SAN TUNG Map Chinese, Dim Sum $
415-242-0828; 1031 Irving St; 11am-9:30pm Thu-Tue; 29, 44, 71, N
When you arrive at 5:30pm on a Sunday and already the place is packed, you might think you’ve hit a family dinner rush – but no, it’s this crowded all the time. Blame it on the dry braised chicken wings – tender, moist morsels that defy the very name – and the housemade dumplings and noodles. You’ll be smacking your lips with the memory when the bill comes: a three-course meal for two for $20. Next time you’ll be in line by 5pm.
GENKI Map Dessert, Groceries $
415-379-6414; www.genkicrepes.com; 330 Clement St; 10:30am-10:30pm; 1, 2, 33, 38, 44
Life is always sweet at Genki, with aisles of packaged Japanese gummy candies nonsensically boasting of flavors ‘shining in the cheeks of a snow-country child,’ a dozen tropical fruit variations on tapioca bubble tea, and French crepes by way of Tokyo with green-tea ice cream and Nutella. Stock up in the beauty supply and Pocky aisle to satisfy sudden snack or hair-dye whims.