San Francisco - Alison Bing [137]
FIRST KOREAN MARKET Map Korean $
415-221-2565; 4625 Geary Blvd; 9am-8pm; 1, 2, 33, 38, 44
Kimchee and kimbap cravings are well and truly satisfied at First Korean, where you’ll find entire rows of the spicy fermented veggies (better than pickles) and sesame-oil-laced Korean seaweed, vegetable and rice rolls (not to be confused with sushi) at bargain prices.
UNDERDOG Map Sausages $
415-665-8881; 1634 Irving St; 11am-9pm; 28, 29, 44, 71, 91, N;
For $4 to $5 organic meals on the run in a bun, Underdog is the clear winner. The roasted garlic and Italian pork sausages are USDA certified–organic, and the smoky veggie chipotle hot dog could make dedicated carnivores into fans of fake meat.
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DRINKING
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ETIQUETTE
SPECIALTIES
PRACTICALITIES
EMBARCADERO & THE PIERS
DOWNTOWN
CIVIC CENTER & THE TENDERLOIN
CHINATOWN
NORTH BEACH
RUSSIAN & NOB HILLS
JAPANTOWN & PACIFIC HEIGHTS
THE MARINA & THE PRESIDIO
SOMA
THE MISSION & POTRERO HILL
THE CASTRO & NOE VALLEY
THE HAIGHT
HAYES VALLEY
GOLDEN GATE PARK & THE AVENUES
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top picks
Bloodhound
Zeitgeist
Hôtel Biron
Tosca Cafe
Elixir
Bourbon & Branch
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What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/san-francisco
The word ‘bar’ loosely describes any establishment in San Francisco where you can have drinks: from the seediest dives to the swankiest lounges. Horn-rimmed hipsters and Mohawked hotties generally head to the Mission and Lower Haight; dancey girls and bi-curious boys trawl SoMa; and sorority gals with blond boyfriends populate the totally hetero pick-up joints of Union and Fillmore Sts. Gay/lesbian/bi/trans favorites are the Castro and SoMa (particularly Thursday to Sunday). Bars on Geary Blvd and Clement St, way out in the Richmond, are worth a 30-minute Muni ride from Downtown for their authentic Irish and faux tiki.
Count on the Castro and Lower Haight for a cheap buzz; pricier trend-conscious spots are North Beach, SoMa, some bars in the Tenderloin (aka the Trendy-loin) and, increasingly, the Mission. San Franciscans express outrage at nonhappy-hour cocktails hitting two digits and pints over $5 – hence the reduced-price happy ‘hour’ that actually runs from about 4pm until about 7pm.
The cafe scene is thriving in SF. Even on a Tuesday afternoon you’ll see crowds of locals at the best spots, prompting many visitors to ask, ‘Does anyone work in this town?’ Actually, yes – cafes are de facto workplaces in SF: expect to see hardcore telecommuters and freelancers hunched over laptops anywhere there’s wi-fi. Listen in on conversations and you’ll also learn that cafes are the preferred meeting place for the full spectrum of locals, from clean-and-sober teens, to transgender poets, to harried moms taking time out for a caffeine jolt. For the best, head to North Beach, the Castro, the Mission and Haight.
This chapter lists bars of all stripes, but we’ve put some other bars in the Nightlife chapter Click here, particularly DJ-driven lounges and bars where you’ll hear live music. If you’re out and about and just want drinks, use this chapter to find a nearby bar. If you’re planning a night on the town, read the Nightlife chapter as well, which is divided by genre, not by neighborhood.
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ETIQUETTE
Unlike in NYC or LA, people won’t usually wait in lines to get into SF bars – they just move on to the next one. Don’t bother schmoozing the bartender (there aren’t many VIP areas to weasel into), but do tell them if you want to start a tab with a credit card. Most aren’t all that chatty anyway, and that’s how locals like it: SF prefers surly bartenders who mix such a mean drink they don’t have to be nice. Smoking’s not allowed, but some bars have patios or special rooms. See the Top Picks box on Click here.
If you’re staying awhile with a small group of friends, buy a round for everyone – someone will get the next one, at least in theory. It’s not impolite to decline a drink if it’s offered, and bartenders are usually accommodating with creative