San Francisco - Alison Bing [138]
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SPECIALTIES
Beer
Blowing off steam took on new meaning during the Gold Rush, when entrepreneurs trying to keep up with the demand for drink started brewing beer at higher temperatures, like ales. The result was a full, rich flavor and such powerful effervescence that when a keg was tapped, a mist would rise like steam. The much-beloved local Anchor Brewing Company has made its signature Anchor Steam amber ale this way, using copper distilling equipment since 1896. Other favorite local brews include Trumer Pils, and Speakeasy and Boont Amber ales, which are among the many beers on tap at Toronado and the 30-plus options at Zeitgeist. Beer lovers look forward to the holidays for the arrival of locally microbrewed seasonal beers and ales. When it comes down to it, SF drinkers can be just as snobby about their beer as their wine. Head to the City Beer Store & Tasting Room for a drinkable education, and leave a tipsy connoisseur.
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FREE BEER
Beer-lovers: Anchor Brewing Company (Map; 415-863-8350; www.anchorbrewing.com; 1705 Mariposa St; 19, 22) offers weekday public tours, but you have to make reservations by phone at least a month in advance (three in summer). It’s worth the wait for the 45-minute tour of Anchor’s historic facilities and shiny-copper brewhouse, the crash course in beer-tasting, and six half-pints of different Anchor brews at the end. For free. ‘Nuf said.
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Irish Coffee
The Buena Vista Café Click here is often mistakenly credited for the invention of this sweet concoction of whisky, coffee, sugar and foamy cream that renders drinkers warm, slightly toasted and oddly alert. At this Victorian-era bar near the cable-car turnaround, the cry of ‘Make one!’ from a server is understood to be an order for the ‘Irish’. But for all that, it was not invented in San Francisco.
Mixology
A recent proliferation of ‘mixology’ bars in SF has revived the classic tradition of hand-crafted drinks. Mixologists (aka bartenders) at these joints take their work very seriously indeed, crushing fistfuls of mint, zesting citrus, grating ginger, pulverizing plant leaves and carefully tasting for balance. Expect to wait – perfection takes time. The best mixologists are unearthing long-since-forgotten Prohibition-era drinks (Sazeracs are back) and learning how to make them the old-fashioned way. Among our favorite places are Cantina, Rye, Alembic and Beretta. Even the speakeasy is back in style: at a small handful of bars, such as Bourbon & Branch (see the boxed text), you’ll need a password to get in.
The Martini
First mentioned in an 1887 bartending guide by Professor Jerry Thomas, the martini was supposedly invented when a boozehound walked into an SF bar and demanded something to tide him over until he reached Martinez across the bay. The original was made with vermouth, gin, bitters, lemon, maraschino cherry and ice, but the recipe has since been refined to gin and vermouth vapors with an olive or a twist. Today, order a martini in any SF bar and the bartender will probably await further instruction. It seems there are all kinds of ways to prepare (or butcher) a martini, so choose carefully.
Soju/Sake Cocktails
Grain alcohols from Korea and Japan (soju and sake, respectively) have lately become key mixers in SF bars, partly because they’re not yet restricted by SF liquor license laws. It’s like back in the day when LSD was still legal. More than two sake cocktails at Noc Noc will knock-knock you right off your stool.
Wine
SF is lucky enough to be near the Sonoma and Napa Valleys, aka Wine Country. Some of the USA’s best wines are produced within two hours of the city. Cabernet, pinot, zinfandel, syrah and sparkling