San Francisco - Alison Bing [207]
Tiburon, with its tiny Main St lined with clapboard buildings, is further from most tourists’ minds, and so has retained more of its original wharf-rat character than Sausalito. Tiburon’s name comes from the Spanish Punta de Tiburon – Shark Point – but you likely won’t spot any. Browse shops on Main St, grab a bite and you’ve done Tiburon. Friday nights from May through October, Tiburon throws its Main St block party, kicking off at 6pm. The town is also the jumping-off point for nearby Angel Island. Commanding splendid views from its perch, Old St Hilary’s Church Museum ( 415-435-1853; 201 Esperanza St; admission free; 1-4pm Wed & Sun, Apr-Oct) is one of the country’s last examples of Carpenter Gothic architecture still in its original setting. The hillsides around the deconsecrated Catholic church comprise St Hilary’s Preserve, which nurtures a treasure trove of rare wildflowers, including the black jewel and Marin dwarf flax. Best in spring.
Eating & Sleeping
Fish ( 415-331-3474; 350 Harbor Dr, Sausalito; mains $12-30; 11:30am-8:30pm; ) This kid-friendly dockside joint at the end of Harbor Dr hooks locals with sustainable, line-caught fish – some from their own boats – and down-home details, like picnic-table seating and Mason-jar glasses. Sustainability and organics have their price: the Saigon salmon sandwich will set you back $22 – but it’s worth it. No credit cards.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe ( 415-435-4527; 27 Main St, Tiburon; dishes $10-25; ) Everyone wants an outdoor table, but you can’t reserve the bay-front patio at this way-popular seafood and burger shack – the town’s oldest restaurant (look for the trapdoor that was used to spirit booze straight from ship to saloon). Good cioppino. Expect seagulls to alight tableside.
Sushi Ran ( 415-332-3620; www.sushiran.com; 107 Caledonia St, Sausalito; dishes $5-17; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily) One of the Bay Area’s top sushi spots. A wine and sake bar ease the pain of long waits – and perhaps the bill.
Golden Gate Market ( 415-332-3040; 221 2nd St, Sausalito; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun) Grab deli sandwiches, cheese and wine for picnics at this grocery/deli/liquor store on the town’s south side.
Gables Inn ( 415-289-1100, 800-966-1554; www.gablesinnsausalito.com; 62 Princess St, Sausalito; r $155-495; ) All nine cozy B&B rooms in this swank historic home have massive baths; the more expensive have Jacuzzis, fireplaces and balconies with spectacular views. Breakfast and evening wine included.
Waters Edge Hotel ( 415-789-5999; www.marinhotels.com/waters.html; 25 Main St, Tiburon; r $159-499; ) This smart 23-unit hotel extends over the bay, with a variety of room types and amenities. All have crisp white bedspreads and balconies (limited views, except in suites), and some have fireplaces. Those with wood ceilings are most atmospheric. Complimentary in-room breakfast and evening wine and cheese.
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MT TAMALPAIS
Though officially pronounced ta-mul-pie-us, everyone calls it ‘Mt Tam.’ To get here, head north along Hwy 1. You can ascend the summit by car, but hiking or biking is the best way to see it.
A popular recreational area since the mid-1800s, the mountain got a now-defunct rail line in 1907 for easy access from Mill Valley to Mt Tam’s highest point,