San Francisco - Alison Bing [208]
The 6300 hill-and-dale acres of Mt Tamalpais State Park ( 415-388-2070; www.mttam.net; 801 Panoramic Hwy) were formed in 1928 from land donated by naturalist William Kent; deer, foxes and bobcats rustle deep in the trees and scurry over the trails. Multitudes of hikers, bikers and horseback riders traverse the park’s 50 miles of paths, including the old railroad grade, but the park is so expansive it doesn’t feel crowded. You may find yourself wandering secluded unmarked trails or accidentally hiking up towards West Peak, an abandoned air-force radar facility. The trails connect with a larger 200-mile trail system on adjacent parklands.
Get information and pick up the free park map at Pantoll Station ( 415-388-2070; 801 Panoramic Hwy), the state park’s headquarters, just past Mt Home Inn and Bootjack on Panoramic Hwy (watch carefully or you’ll miss the turnoff). Overnight parking is available. You can day-hike from here – it’s a beautiful 8.5-mile climb to East Peak Summit and back – or drive 4.2 miles along Ridgecrest Blvd to the East Peak Summit Visitors Center (parking $6), then climb the remaining quarter-mile to the summit.
From Pantoll Station, Steep Ravine Trail follows a wooded creek to the coast (about 2.1 miles each way). For a longer hike, veer right after 1.5 miles onto the Dipsea Trail, which meanders through woods for a mile before ending at Stinson Beach.
Mountain-biking was made famous on Mt Tam in the ’70s. When you kick up gravel flying downhill, though, know that strict speed limits of 15mph (5mph around blind curves) are enforced, and access is limited to fire roads – no single-track riding allowed. Violations cost up to $250.
Sleeping
Mountain Home Inn ( 415-381-9000; www.mtnhomeinn.com; 810 Panoramic Hwy; r $195-345; ) Set atop a ridgeline amid redwood, spruce and pines, Mountain Home is perfect for a romantic, woodsy retreat. All 10 rooms face east and most have balconies and fireplaces. Some are tiny, but cozy nonetheless. No TVs. Full breakfast. Its restaurant serves brunch ($10 to 20) and dinner (prix fixe $38) from Wednesday to Sunday.
West Point Inn ( 24hr reservations 415-646-0702, inn 415-388-9955; www.westpointinn.com; 1000 Panoramic Hwy; r adult/under 18yr $50/25) Pack your own food, sleeping bag and towels, and bring a flashlight – there’s no electricity at this rustic, charming 1904 inn. Hike-in only. No same-day reservations.
Pantoll Campground ( 415-388-2070; 801 Panoramic Hwy; campsites $25) Eight trails depart from this forested campground, with 16 walk-in sites, 100yd from parking. Each has a fire pit and grill. Flush toilets and drinking water are nearby, and there’s firewood for sale. Arrive early! First-come, first-served.
Steep Ravine Environmental Campground ( reservations 800-444-7275, info 415-388-2070; 801 Panoramic Hwy; campsites/cabins $25/100) One of the Bay Area’s premier campgrounds lies 1 mile south of Stinson Beach, with drop-dead ocean views from a high promontory. Book rustic five-person cabins seven months ahead; campsites are easier to snag, but coveted nonetheless.
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ANGEL ISLAND
Rising from the middle of the bay, Angel Island ( 415-435-5390; www.angelisland.org) was devastated by a 2008 fire that burned 300 of the park’s 740 acres. As you explore this domed beauty, all around you’ll spot signs of the land repairing itself. You can spread out a picnic in a protected cove overlooking the close but immeasurably distant urban surroundings, or explore the island on foot or bicycle. The island has served as a military base, immigration station, WWII Japanese internment camp and Nike missile site, leaving it some interesting