San Francisco - Alison Bing [217]
Wineries
Natural beauty gets bottled in Dry Creek, beginning with zins served in caves at Bella Vineyards ( 707-473-9171, 866-572-3552; www.bellawinery.com; 9711 W Dry Creek Rd; tasting $5; 11am-4pm). Mosey over to the 19th-century homestead at Preston Vineyards (707-433-3327, 800-305-9707; www.prestonvineyards.com; 9282 W Dry Creek Rd; tasting $5, refundable with purchase) for picnics of certified organically grown Barbera and Viognier with home-baked bread, organic fruit, and Pug’s Leap goat cheese, plus marathon bocce ball games.
Pull up an Adirondack chair creekside and stay awhile at Truett-Hurst ( 707-433-6913; www.truetthurst.com; 5610 Dry Creek Rd; by appointment Mon-Thu, 11am-5pm Fri-Sun), Dry Creek’s newest biodynamic winery, which is already producing stellar old-vine zins. Pristine biodynamic field blends are served inside a fluorescent-lit garage at Unti (707-433-5590; www.untivineyards.com; 4202 Dry Creek Rd; Sat & Sun, by appointment Mon-Fri), but even under harsh lighting, everyone looks gorgeous after a glass of bodacious Brunello-style sangiovese and the voluptuous syrah.
Eating
Cyrus ( 707-433-3311; www.cyrusrestaurant.com; 29 North St, Healdsburg; fixed-price menu $102-130; 6-11pm Wed-Mon) Critics rave about the decadent truffle-laced dishes, but the local secret is the bar, where dishes are served a la carte with mad-scientist cocktails.
Bovolo ( 707-431-2962; www.bovolorestaurant.com; 106 Matheson St, Healdsburg; dishes $6-14; 9am-6pm Thu, Fri, Mon, Tue, to 9pm Sat & Sun) Fast food gets a slow-food spin at this bistro in the back of a bookstore, with locally grown salads, farm-fresh egg breakfasts and pizza topped with meats cured in-house.
Scopa ( 707-433-5282; www.scopahealdsburg.com; 109-A Plaza St, Healdsburg; mains $12-26; 5:30-10pm Tue-Sun) Call ahead for a spot at this converted barbershop for thin-crust pizza and Nonna’s slow-braised chicken melting into a polenta pillow.
Dry Creek General Store ( 707-433-4171; www.dcgstore.com; 3495 Dry Creek Rd; sandwiches $8-10; 6am-6pm) When your stomach protests zin before lunch, make a pit stop here for a Toscano salami and manchego sandwich or the classic BLT, and a sunny spot on the porch.
Drinking
Flying Goat Coffee (707-433-9081; www.flyinggoatcoffee.com; 324 Center St, Healdsburg; 7am-6pm) Cappuccinos with fresh-roasted beans and ferns drawn by baristas in stiff foam are served in a restored storefront with lazy ceiling fans.
Bear Republic Brewing Company (707-433-2337; 345 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg; 11:30am-late) Handcrafted, award-winning ales, plus pub grub and live music on weekends.
Sleeping
Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza (707-433-6991, 800-431-8663; www.healdsburginn.com; 110 Matheson St, Healdsburg; Mon-Fri $200-250, Sat & Sun $220-325) Renovated in 2005 with a nod to Tuscany, sunny, high-ceilinged guestrooms have fine linens and gas fireplaces; hang out in the solarium or the cushy living room over full breakfasts, afternoon wine, cheese and cookies.
Hotel Healdsburg (707-431-2800, 800-889-7188; www.hotelhealdsburg.com; 25 Matheson St, Healdsburg; r incl breakfast $260-790; ) Smack on the plaza, this polished-concrete chic hotel has soothing earth-toned guestrooms with vast beds, some with soaking tubs; leave rested and gleaming from a Crushed Zinfandel Body Polish ($115 for 50 minutes) in the garden spa.
Best Western Dry Creek Inn ( 707-433-0300, 800-222-5784; 198 Dry Creek Rd, Healdsburg; r $119-155; ) Healdsburg’s spiffiest motel, with remodeled rooms, free laundry and an outdoor hot tub.
L&M Motel ( 707-433-6528; www.landmmotel.com; 70 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg; r $75-99; ) Vegas-kitschy and friendly, this family-owned motel is within walking distance of the town plaza. It has an Olympic-sized indoor swimming pool, a sauna and a Jacuzzi, and backyard barbecue grills.
Cloverdale Wine Country KOA (707-894-3337, 800-368-4558; www.winecountrykoa.com; 26460 River Rd, Cloverdale; tent/RV sites from