San Francisco - Alison Bing [218]
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POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE
Forty miles north of San Francisco, on an entirely different tectonic plate from the mainland, the windswept peninsula of Point Reyes juts 10 miles out to sea and lures marine mammals, migratory birds and whale-watching tourists. In 1579 Sir Francis Drake landed here to repair his ship, the Golden Hind. During his five-week stay he mounted a brass plaque (which has never been found) claiming this land for England; historians believe he was at Drakes Beach. In 1595 the San Augustine went down offshore, the first of scores of ships lost here. A Spanish treasure ship from Manila, she was laden with luxury goods, such as porcelain, and to this day bits of her cargo wash up on shore. Even now, despite GPS systems, the dangerous waters and treacherous rocks continue to claim the occasional vessel, adding to the peninsula’s mystique.
Point Reyes National Seashore, established by President Kennedy in 1963, includes 110 sq miles of pristine ocean beaches, wind-tousled ridgetops and diverse wildlife. With excellent hiking and camping, Point Reyes is one of the Bay Area’s top day-trip excursions, and its surrounding villages make a romantic spot for a quick overnight. Bring warm clothing: even the sunniest days can quickly turn cold and foggy. The West Marin Chamber of Commerce ( 415-663-9232; www.pointreyes.org) provides info on the Point Reyes region.
Start out at the Bear Valley Visitors Center ( 415-464-5100; www.nps.gov/pore; Bear Valley Rd; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat & Sun), the park’s headquarters (near Olema), which provides maps, information and worthwhile exhibits. This is the major trailhead for the park – the longest trail is Palomarin Trail at 11.5 miles. You can also get information at the Point Reyes Lighthouse ( 415-669-1534; 10am-4:30pm Thu-Mon) and the Ken Patrick Center ( 415-669-1250; Drakes Beach; 10am-5pm Fri-Tue summer, 10am-5pm Sat, Sun & holidays winter).
Other fun hikes are Arch Rock (4.1 miles one-way), Sky Camp (2.7 miles one-way), Wildcat Camp (6.3 miles one-way) and Coast Camp (8.9 miles one-way). Within easy walking distance you’ll find Kule Loklo, which is a replica of a Miwok village. One of the coolest interpretive walks is the Earthquake Walk, smack dab on the San Andreas Fault. Point Reyes sits on the Pacific tectonic plate, the mainland on the North American plate, and the two grind against each other and occasionally trigger earthquakes. Along the Earthquake Walk, look for the fence that split and shifted a stunning 18ft during the 1906 earthquake. Amazing.
Limantour Rd, off Bear Valley Rd about 1 mile north of Bear Valley Visitors Center, leads to the Point Reyes Hostel and to Limantour Beach. The Inverness Ridge Trail heads from Limantour Rd up to 1282ft Mt Vision.
The Point Reyes Lighthouse ( 415-669-1534; 10am-4:30pm Thu-Mon) sits at the end of Sir Francis Drake Blvd. The wild, steep terrain here gets buffeted by ferocious winds, and offers the best whale-watching along the coast. The lighthouse sits 600ft below the headlands, down 308 steps, so that its light can shine below the fog that usually blankets the point. The lens room and clockworks are open as conditions permit.
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TRANSPORTATION: POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE
Distance from San Francisco 40 miles to park headquarters
Direction North
Travel time 60 minutes
Car Cross the Golden Gate and follow signs on Hwy 101 for Hwy 1 north. Just past Olema turn south on Bear Valley Rd to the park headquarters.
Bus Take bus 68 run by West Marin Stagecoach ( 415-526-3239; www.marintransit.org) from the San Rafael Transit Center to the Bear Valley Visitors Center. To reach San Rafael, take Golden Gate Transit bus 70 or 80 from downtown SF.
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Nearby Chimney Rock makes a lovely short hike, especially in spring when wildflowers