San Francisco - Alison Bing [219]
On weekends during good weather, from 9am to 5:30pm in late December through mid-April, the road to Chimney Rock and the lighthouse is closed to private vehicles. Instead, you must take a shuttle ($5; children under 16 free) from Drakes Beach. Buy tickets between 9am and 3pm at the Ken Patrick Center. Shuttles run every 20 minutes from 9:30am to 3:30pm, weather permitting; for daily updates call 415-464-5100, ext 2, then press 1.
McClures Beach, near the north end, is a gem of a beach, with white sand, forceful surf and excellent tidepools at low tide. Start the steep half-mile trail down to the beach at the end of Pierce Point Rd, also the starting point of the stunning, mostly level 3-mile bluff-top walk to Tomales Point – through herds of Tule elk. (Keep your distance, lest they charge.)
You can also explore on horseback with Five Brooks Stable ( 415-663-1570; www.fivebrooks.com; 8001 Hwy 1, Olema; 1/2/3/6-hr rides $40/60/80/160; 9am-5pm), which also offers pony rides for kids ($15).
To explore the peninsula from the water, contact Point Reyes Outdoors ( 415-663-8192; www.pointreyesoutdoors.com; 11401 Hwy 1, Point Reyes Station; guided trips $85-110); or Blue Waters Kayaking ( 415-669-2600; www.bwkayak.com; rentals $40-120, guided trips $68-98), which has two locations, one in Inverness, the other in Marshall. Call to confirm opening hours. The bird-watching at Tomales Bay is superb mid-winter.
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EATING
Nick’s Cove & Cottages ( 415-663-1033; http://nickscove.com; 23240 Hwy 1, Marshall; mains $14-30; 8am-9pm) Celeb SF chef Mark Franz runs the kitchen at Point Reyes’ only destination restaurant, a vintage-1930s roadhouse perched over Tomales Bay (20 minutes north of Point Reyes Station), with trophy heads mounted on knotty pine walls and a roaring fireplace. Book a window table to bird-watch while you sup on impeccable seafood, grilled meats and local oysters – all sustainably farmed. Reservations essential. The adjoining cottages are expensive ($355 to $700), but oh-so romantic.
Station House Cafe ( 415-663-1515; www.stationhousecafe.com; 11180 Hwy 1, Point Reyes Station; dishes $11-20; 11am-9pm Thu-Tue) The New American menu is a crowd-pleaser, with meatloaf, BBQ ribs, fish and chips, burgers and meat and seafood mains, but the food is just OK and service is slow. Still, we like the outdoor patio and convenient location before or after hiking. Full bar.
Cafe Reyes ( 415-663-9493; 11101 Hwy 1, Point Reyes Station; dishes $6-14; noon-9pm; ) The Latin-Asian wraps, stir-fries, sandwiches and salads are solidly good, but the best thing is the view from the big outdoor deck.
Priscilla’s Pizza ( 415-669-1244; 12781 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Inverness; pizzas around $10; 11am-8pm Wed-Mon; ) Good pizza (some soy); other dishes are so-so. In the morning there’s coffee and pastries.
Perry’s Delicatesen ( 415-663-1491; 2301 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Inverness Park; sandwiches $6-8; 6:30am-8pm) The great vegetarian sandwiches are made greater with the addition of bacon. Pop one in your backpack and enjoy it mid-hike from a high promontory.
Tomales Bay Foods ( 415-663-9335; www.cowgirlcreamery.com; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun) Home of the famous Cowgirl Creamery cheese-makers (tours Friday mornings at 11:30am; reservations recommended), here you can gather stellar picnic fixings – fruit, bread and gooey-delicious cheese.
Hog Island Oyster Co ( 415-663-9218, ext 208; www.hogislandoysters.com; 20215 Hwy 1, Marshall; picnic fee Mon-Fri $5, Sat & Sun $8, 12 oysters $10-15, 50 oysters $32-52, 100 oysters $60-90; 9am-5pm) Picnic on fresh local oysters in a bayside cove at this renowned oyster farm, which provides tables, barbecues, lemons, hot sauce, trays of ice, shucking knives and instruction. Bring wine, beer and other food items. Bay Area families come every year, and book months ahead for