Saveur Cooks Authentic American - Editors Of Cook's Illustrated Magazine [62]
2. Make the filling: Preheat oven to 500°F. Combine cream cheese, sugar, flour, zests, and vanilla in a food processor and process until very smooth, about 1 minute. Add eggs and yolks one at a time, processing 10 seconds after each addition, until smooth; stir in cream. Pour filling into crust (filling will come over the crust), set on a baking sheet, and bake until top is deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 200°F and bake for 1 hour more. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely to room temperature. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
3. Remove cake from pan and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour to soften slightly. Cut cake into slices and serve.
New York Icon
The story of New York cheesecake, like that of so many beloved American foods, is a narrative of immigrant tradition, disputed pedigree, and local pride. The city’s signature dessert owes its existence in large part to Philadelphia cream cheese, which was invented in Chester, New York, in 1872 and distributed by a company called Philadelphia Brand. Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe made do with the cheese when they couldn’t find fresh-curd varieties like cottage and farmers’ for their traditional baked goods. How this Americanized cheesecake was introduced into New York City mythology has long been a subject of debate. Arnold Reuben, of the Manhattan delicatessen that bears his name, claimed he was the first to serve it, around 1910. Reuben’s main competitor, deli man Leo Lindemann, lured away Reuben’s Swiss-born pastry chef, Paul Heghi, to re-create the dessert at his establishment, Lindy’s, where it became a New York icon.
Caramel Coconut Flan
Many traditional recipes for this custardy Mexican sweet call for cooking it on the stove top, but baking it is easier and results in an equally sumptuous texture and flavor. A rich combination of coconut milk, evaporated milk, and sweetened condensed milk makes for an especially silky flan.
1 cup sweetened condensed milk
¾ cup evaporated milk
½ cup unsweetened coconut milk
¾ tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. kosher salt
3 eggs plus 3 egg yolks
1½ cups sugar
Serves 8
1. Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Heat the condensed milk, evaporated milk, and coconut milk in a 1-qt. saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to simmer; remove from the heat. In a large bowl, whisk together the vanilla, salt, eggs, and yolks until smooth. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the warm milk mixture until incorporated; set aside.
2. Stir together the sugar and ½ cup water in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, without stirring, until the sugar turns a deep caramel color, about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and pour equal amounts of the caramel mixture into eight 6-oz. ramekins; let cool.
3. Put 4 ramekins each into two 8-inch square glass baking dishes and pour an equal amount of the reserved milk mixture into each ramekin. Pull out the oven rack and place the baking dishes on it, side by side. Pour enough boiling water into the baking dishes that it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custard is just set but still wiggly in the center, about 30 minutes. Covering your hand with a kitchen towel or an oven mitt, pick up the ramekins, transfer them to the refrigerator, and let chill for about 3 hours.
4. To serve, use a knife to cut around the inside edges of each ramekin and immerse the bottom of each ramekin in a baking pan of hot water for 20 seconds; invert the ramekins onto small plates to release the flans.
German Chocolate Cake
Don’t let the name fool